The glamour of Baz Luhrmann's 2001 film Moulin Rouge! first introduced many to the timeless allure of diamonds, and that same captivating sparkle now illuminates the Victoria and Albert Museum's spectacular Cartier exhibition. Running until Sunday, 16 November, this showcase offers an unprecedented look into the glittering world of one of history's most prestigious jewellery houses.
A Royal Legacy in Jewels
At the heart of the exhibition lies a stunning collection of royal treasures, many on loan from King Charles III. The piece that commands immediate attention is the magnificent Williamson Diamond Brooch, once owned by Queen Elizabeth II. Commissioned by Her Late Majesty in 1953 for her coronation, the brooch centres on an extraordinary 23.6-carat pink diamond, a wedding gift from Canadian geologist John Thoburn Williamson, who discovered the original 54.5-carat rough stone in his Tanzanian mine.
The fascinating history continues: in 1948, the then-Princess Elizabeth visited the Briefel and Lemer diamond-cutting factory in Clerkenwell Green with her grandmother, Queen Mary. According to the Montreal Gazette, Elizabeth 'smiled delightedly' at the progress, while the renowned connoisseur Queen Mary 'asked numerous questions of a technical nature'. Cartier then set the finished gem into a platinum jonquil-shaped brooch, adding 203 white diamonds to complete the dazzling design.
The Queen wore this beloved brooch on numerous significant occasions, including the 1981 wedding of Prince Charles and Lady Diana Spencer, and the 1999 marriage of the Earl of Wessex and Sophie Rhys-Jones. Following her passing, the brooch was inherited by King Charles, and Queen Camilla most recently wore it at a Buckingham Palace garden party in 2024, beautifully continuing its royal legacy.
Iconic Pieces and Celebrity Glamour
The exhibition extends far beyond British royalty, showcasing pieces with incredible Hollywood provenance. The room dedicated to Cartier in film reveals Princess Grace of Monaco's breathtaking engagement ring—a 10.47-carat emerald-cut diamond flanked by baguettes, which Prince Rainier III presented as a second engagement ring. She wore it in her final film, High Society (1956), where her character is seen admiring the stone, cementing its place in cinematic history.
Equally captivating are the jewels once owned by Wallis Simpson, Duchess of Windsor, whose flamboyant taste is evident in pieces like the Panthère Clip Brooch from 1949. This spectacular piece features a platinum and white gold panther studded with diamonds and sapphires, sitting atop a staggering 152.35-carat spherical cabochon sapphire. Her collection also includes the playful yet extravagant Flamingo Brooch, commissioned by the Duke of Windsor in 1940 and crafted from rubies, sapphires, emeralds, citrine and diamonds.
Cartier's Enduring Craftsmanship
With more than 350 pieces on display—encompassing jewellery, watches and trinket boxes—the exhibition traces the evolution of Cartier's distinctive style under soft, atmospheric lighting. It celebrates the house's technical innovation and exceptional craftsmanship, demonstrating its remarkable ability to remain relevant across changing eras.
From Princess Margaret's cherished Rose Brooch, which she wore to her sister's coronation, to the original typewritten letter from Cartier proposing a diamond microphone charm for a 14-year-old Princess Elizabeth's first BBC radio speech during the Blitz, the exhibition reveals the deeply personal relationship between the Royal Family and the legendary jeweller.
The showcase concludes with a breathtaking room dedicated to tiaras of every conceivable design, set with diamonds, sapphires, emeralds, rubies and pearls. Here, royal glamour feels almost within reach, yet remains, as ever, just out of reach for most visitors, leaving them with memories of unparalleled beauty and craftsmanship.
