The legendary New York nightclub Studio 54 may have closed nearly four decades ago, but its iconic fashion sense is once again dictating party wear. This season, the spotlight is not on revealing bodysuits but on the luxurious, fuzzy coats that were a staple for style icons like Jerry Hall and Bianca Jagger.
As the festive party season approaches, this nostalgic trend is experiencing a major revival, offering a glamorous 'one and done' outfit solution.
The Retail Boom
High street retailers are reporting a significant surge in demand for these statement pieces. One of the most popular items from Marks & Spencer's recent collaboration with the London label 16Arlington is a cropped, cream, long-haired jacket with giant lapels.
The trend is further evidenced by shopping data. At John Lewis, searches for brown faux fur coats have skyrocketed, increasing by 190% compared to last year. The secondhand market is also thriving, with the platform Depop noting a staggering 257% rise in searches for faux fur over the past six months.
Defining the 'Boom Boom' Trend
Julia Hobbs, a senior editor at British Vogue, describes the item as a 'one and done coat', explaining that it serves as the central, defining element of an entire ensemble. The trend has been identified by American forecaster Sean Monahan as 'boom boom', a style rooted in the opulence and aspiration of late-80s New York.
This aesthetic, which champions dressing for the life you desire, is gaining traction against a backdrop of economic uncertainty. The look has also been popularised on screen, featured in the new Netflix series Nobody Wants This, where a character wears a toffee-coloured furry jacket as a complete outfit.
Modern Interpretations and Mood Boosters
Unlike the real fur prevalent in the original Studio 54 era, today's versions are predominantly faux. Designers are using shearling or synthetic materials like polyester to create what is often a playful, 'tongue in cheek' take on luxury.
London designer Charlotte Simone has been a pioneer, creating fluffy coats with exaggerated proportions worn by celebrities like Taylor Swift and Dua Lipa. Fashion experts compare the coat's appeal to the lipstick effect. Charlotte Collins of SheerLuxe notes that in tough times, people want a single, dramatic piece rather than basics.
Ultimately, the fuzzy coat is being celebrated as an instant mood lifter. 'It doesn't have to cost a fortune,' says Collins, 'and it's going to make you feel glam when everything else is pretty gloomy.'