The fashion world is mourning the loss of Pam Hogg, the radical Scottish designer who brought the energy of the 1980s London club scene to the global catwalk. A true original, Hogg was as famous for her rock 'n' roll spirit and signature blonde quiff as she was for her inventive designs worn by icons from Debbie Harry to Kate Moss.
From Glasgow Art School to the Blitz Club
Born in Paisley, near Glasgow, Hogg's creative journey began early; she started making her own clothes at just six years old. Her formal training took her first to the Glasgow School of Art to study painting and printed textiles, before she moved to London to attend the prestigious Royal College of Art.
It was in the capital's vibrant club scene that her design career truly ignited. She initially crafted attention-grabbing outfits to guarantee entry into legendary venues like Steve Strange's Blitz club. This DIY, punk-inspired approach quickly evolved, and she launched her designs onto the catwalk in 1981.
Her rise was meteoric. By 1989, i-D magazine hailed her as "the most consistently inventive British fashion designer (alongside Vivienne Westwood)", also describing her as a '100% party girl' who designed the clothes to match. Her creations became the uniform for fellow icons like Paula Yates, Debbie Harry, and Siouxsie Sioux.
A Rock 'n' Roll Spirit: From Catwalk to Stage
Hogg was a personality in her own right, instantly recognisable by her shock of blond hair, sharp quiff, red lipstick, and winged eyeliner. This rock 'n' roll attitude defined her next chapter. As fashion shifted towards minimalism in the 1990s, Hogg swapped the catwalk for the stage, becoming the lead singer in the band Doll.
She continued to design, creating extrovert costumes for her performances while opening for acts like Blondie and The Raincoats. Her A-list connections remained strong. Recalling this era to the Gentlewoman magazine, she spoke of a Ziggy Stardust-inspired outfit she made, which Kate Moss immediately commandeered for her Bowie-themed birthday party.
A Triumphant Return and Lasting Legacy
Hogg made a celebrated return to fashion in the 2000s, designing striking outfits for a new generation of musicians including Rihanna, Björk, and Kylie Minogue. She returned to the catwalk in 2009, showcasing her signature tight, brightly coloured catsuits.
Remarkably, she continued to sew every single catwalk piece herself. "I make it all to fit me," she told Vogue, "except that everything is four inches longer for the models."
Her legacy is cemented not just in celebrity wardrobes but in cultural institutions. A semi-sheer wedding dress she designed for Lady Mary Charteris in 2012 now resides in the Victoria and Albert Museum.
Hogg's final collection in 2024, titled 'Of Gods and Monsters', was created from recycled fabric and addressed urgent issues like the environment and the genocide in Gaza. "It's an unfair and imbalanced world," she stated. "Please use your voice."
She consistently defied convention, once telling the Guardian, "I'm just glad not to be termed normal. Fuck normality!" Her family confirmed her death, writing that her "creative spirit and body of work touched the lives of many" and that her magnificent legacy will "continue to inspire, bring joy and challenge us to live beyond the confines of convention."
