It began with a fashion emergency in 2006. Preparing for a swanky party, I had purchased an exquisite but slightly sheer Chloé blouse from Selfridges. The perfect nude bra was essential, but my visit to Rigby & Peller - corsetière to the late Queen - left me devastated.
The Disappointing Search for Support
The options presented featured bumpy seams, ugly straps and chunky fastenings. The cups created such a pointy shape that my beautiful blouse gaped awkwardly. My eyes watered with disappointment as I asked the sales assistant if these were really the only choices. The experience was so disheartening that I ultimately returned the designer top.
This struggle will resonate with many women. So many bras lack proper support, feature digging straps, painful underwires, or create unflattering bulges. The quest for comfortable, well-fitting lingerie often feels hopeless.
A Parisian Revelation
Salvation came through a friend's recommendation of Cadolle, a Parisian couture house dedicated entirely to the noble art of underpinnings. As she described the personalised fitting process, the custom toiles, and exquisite lace selection, I was captivated. Then came the price revelation: 600 euros (£400 at 2006 exchange rates). Despite the gasp-worthy cost, her evident thrill persuaded me immediately.
I arranged an appointment with Madame Cadolle for October 2006, turning the occasion into a family trip to Paris with my husband and three-year-old daughter - who, unknown to us, was developing chickenpox.
Entering a Lingerie Legacy
Cadolle's story began in the late 1880s when founder Herminie Cadolle - inventor of the modern bra - literally cut a corset in two to liberate women from restrictive clothing. A feminist and former political prisoner, she unveiled her patented 'corselet-gorge' at the 1889 World Fair. The business flourished, working with Coco Chanel and dressing icons from the Duchess of Windsor to Mata Hari and Elizabeth Taylor.
Today, sixth-generation proprietor Poupie Cadolle maintains this legacy. Now in her late 70s, she embodies Parisian chic with blonde shoulder-length hair, red nails, and trademark black outfits. Her warmth and humour immediately put clients at ease.
The Couture Experience
Cadolle remains a small family business with just eleven employees across their couture operations. New clients receive Poupie's undivided attention in consultations that can last hours - she recently spent ninety minutes discussing bra strap width with one customer.
The process involves choosing from approximately twenty-five styles, with the selected design adapted through multiple fittings until perfection. Each client receives their own custom pattern. Unlike mass-produced seamless bras moulded by machines, Cadolle uses stiff lace and strategic darts for support and shape.
I selected the Carat style, originally created for a demanding dancer. The first fitting involves a rough prototype with visible seams and pins everywhere. After adjustments, the pattern maker completely unpicks the bra to create the refined version.
My second fitting occurred while my chickenpox-stricken daughter screamed through the salon. Every element remained adjustable until we achieved perfect harmony between body and garment.
The Perfect Result
Weeks later, my first Cadolle bra arrived wrapped in exquisite tissue paper. Crafted from frothy pale-pink 'Pétale de Rose' lace, it was delicate yet incredibly supportive. The fit was so seamless I forgot I was wearing it, and all my clothing hung better as a result.
Nearly two decades later, I've acquired six Cadolle bras - approximately one every 3.1 years. All are Carat styles in pale pink or nude, perfectly matched to my skin tone. I wear them exclusively, washing weekly with hair shampoo as Poupie recommends. She repairs them to extend their lifespan, meaning not one has ever been discarded.
Current prices start above 1,000 euros (£900), but the longevity and perfect comfort justify the investment. I treasure these pieces so much that I always pack them in hand luggage when travelling.
The experience transcends mere lingerie shopping. It connects women to a heritage of craftsmanship and empowerment that began when Herminie Cadolle first liberated women from corsets. For those tired of compromising on comfort, the journey to Paris might just be worth every penny.
