Milan fashion week has taken a turn towards the sensible, with designers swapping theatrical flourishes for everyday clothes. The shift, dubbed 'blandstanding' by industry insiders, marks a departure from the high drama that has dominated recent catwalks.
At Gucci, the departure of maximalist designer Alessandro Michele has led to a collection focused on blazers, jeans, and practical shoulder bags. While some traces of his signature style remained in bright furs and diamanté bikinis, the overall mood was restrained, with double-breasted suits and classic trenchcoats hinting at a new direction.
Prada's co-designers Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons declared they had tired of storytelling, choosing instead to 'bring beauty into everyday pieces'. Their collection featured crisp shirting, simple skirts, and low-heeled shoes. 'It doesn't sound right any more,' Simons said of creating themed collections.
Max Mara's Ian Griffiths championed clothes that 'show the beauty of the wearer without degrading them', presenting simple knit dresses and matching coats in muted tones. Fendi's Kim Jones took inspiration from a real-life working wardrobe, basing a look on a team member's first-day outfit.
This emphasis on practicality represents a resistance to the viral trends that have pushed fashion towards extremes. The most influential look from last season's Milan shows was a pair of loose blue jeans and a checked shirt, worn by Kate Moss at Bottega Veneta—a far cry from the 'naked dresses' and 'indie sleaze' of recent months.
