The Golden Tooth, on Green Lanes in north London, has arrived fully formed with huge swagger. This pub and restaurant, 10 minutes from Canonbury station, is the second project from chef Matthew Scott and wine merchant Charlie Carr, the duo behind the now-defunct but memorable Papi in London Fields. While Papi was scrappy, chaotic, and archly cool, The Golden Tooth represents a maturation: Scott and Carr now serve food with cool, clear, adult direction in a proper dining room, with music from 1983 to 1986.
A Menu of Mature Flavours
The menu is a single sheet in a businesslike font, featuring dishes like mussel toast with lardo, middle white chop with apple ketchup, and Sussex sheep's milk ricotta dumplings with jersey royals and white asparagus. The wine list, curated by Carr, focuses on low-intervention, micro-producer bottles, with a strong selection of English wines. Ale is also available and pairs beautifully with the food.
The standout dish is the Montgomery cheddar tart: a wobbly, voluminous slice that is tall, quivering, eggy, creamy, and rich, piled high with grated cheese and served with a foamy walnut and onion soubise. According to the review, this tart alone makes The Golden Tooth destination dining.
Starters and Mains
Meals begin with bread and Bovril butter, which the reviewer ate like cake. The bread is toasted and sticky, somewhere between Soreen malt loaf and teacake, served with a quenelle of salted Bovril butter. The wild sea bass crudo with citrus and lovage oil is a bold, strange taste that works well. The ex-dairy cow tartare with elderflower, fermented chilli, and carta di musica is a signature dish, but the menu now offers even more enticing options.
The stargazy pie for two is a highlight: a mustardy, creamy pie stuffed with shredded chicken and red prawns, with the head of an enormous red prawn poking out of the pastry. It is served with big fat homemade chips and a vivid green wild garlic aioli. The reviewer notes it is perilously delicious and generous.
Desserts and Final Impressions
Desserts include elegant options like honeymoon melon sorbet and mint choc chip ice-cream, but the lardy cake is a standout: plump, glossy, and possibly fatal if eaten in sufficient quantity, served with Baron Bigod cheese and honey. The sunflower seed frangipane is a rustic, wholesome take on almonds, moist and decadent with al dente rhubarb and creme fraiche.
The Golden Tooth has appeared fully formed with huge swagger, though the team is coy about it. The reviewer advises booking a table now and not letting them pretend it's just a boozer. The restaurant is open for lunch Friday and Saturday noon-3pm, Sunday noon-5pm; dinner Wednesday to Saturday 6-10pm. The bar is open Monday to Thursday 5-11pm, Friday and Saturday noon-midnight, Sunday noon-10pm. Prices are about £50 a head à la carte, plus drinks and service.
