Pierpaolo Piccioli presented his first haute couture collection for Balenciaga, drawing inspiration from Spanish golden age art and British sculptor Barbara Hepworth. The show, staged under a blistering Paris sun during a heatwave, featured sculptural silhouettes and a playful palette that reimagined the storied house in his own colorful image.
Inspirations and Design Philosophy
Piccioli, who helms Balenciaga after 25 years at Valentino, approached the brief conscientiously. The haute couture war room where he worked for nine months was plastered with images ranging from a 1961 Balenciaga dress to works by Zurbarán and Velázquez, and a monumental Hepworth pierced megalith. Balenciaga's house style is clothing that stands proud of the body, with organic cocoon curves and bell shapes that share more DNA with Hepworth sculptures than with leggings. The fabric, through cut alone, hovers in space, evoking a Zurbarán-like air of mystery and wonder.
Modern Touches and Technology
Piccioli described Balenciaga as "a philosopher for the way you feel in a dress." The airy clothes, such as an embroidered silk gazar bustier dress cantilevered out from the body, proved extremely appealing during the heatwave. A dense motorcycle helmet-shaped headpiece of ostrich feathers was less tempting. Piccioli brought his signature color sensibility—ultraviolet, aniseed, and lavender—to the collection. A vertical stack of three fuchsia puffballs stalked the runway like a giant fluorescent chess piece, embodying the pomp and whimsy of couture. "Haute couture is a world with no maps," Piccioli said. "There are no limits on your imagination." Some grand looks included trousers—feathered, embroidered, or with ballgown-scale trains—reflecting modern women's fashion. Clients' bodies will be scanned using 3D technology, with digital adjustments, though Piccioli insisted that technique must be hidden: "All you see is the magic of a woman in a dress."
Armani Privé: Silvana Armani's Second Show
Silvana Armani, niece of the late Giorgio, moved more decisively into the driving seat with her second Armani Privé haute couture show. Her uncle's succession plan placed her in charge of womenswear, while Leo Dell'Orco, his long-time life partner, helms menswear. Consistency and elegant restraint remain core values, with gentle changes. The little hats Giorgio loved to accessorize were banished—Silvana admitted she never liked hats. Her personal style, favoring trousers for evening, was reflected in a lineup where trouser suits outnumbered gowns.
