I’ve only been in Washington DC for a few hours, and the welcome isn’t warm, it’s positively toasty. The solo diner to my left has given me her number (“If you need any recommendations, just ask”), and the barman is sharing stories of his time in the UK (“I love how gay Bristol is”). And no, there aren’t two DCs. This is the American capital, epicentre of US politics and home to Donald Trump.
The ‘Trump Slump’ and a City’s Perception Problem
The US has had a big month: the World Cup and a 250th birthday. But still, the rest of the world isn’t joining in a chorus of the Star Spangled Banner. While there was a global rise in international tourism last year, the US saw a 6% dip. Dubbed the ‘Trump Slump’, some say they are staying away as an act of political defiance, while others are scared to visit, citing concerns over strict border security, ICE, and the National Guard on the streets.
I can understand why. The first time I saw soldiers strutting along a residential street, I wasn’t sure what to do with myself. Every local I met was quick to share their political leanings. You get the sense that this is a city trying to prove to outsiders that, while they might have a bombastic President at 1600 Pennsylvania Ave, this is not a city where people walk around wearing MAGA hats (I only saw one, on a child at the Lincoln Memorial), and there are signs declaring ‘ICE Out’ in many front yards.
Trump’s presence is certainly felt, in the billowing posters of his face on government buildings, the construction work outside the White House, and yes, the military green patrolling the pavements. It makes the situation even more difficult for DC, a city that already has, as the tourism board calls it, a ‘perception problem.’ But from the moment I arrived, it surprised me.
A Solo Traveler’s Three-Day Itinerary
I found myself in thrall of its art splashed streets, where rainbow flags fly and Black Lives Matter slogans are stamped on pavements. And, from a tourism perspective, I’ve never come across a place so well designed for those who want to holiday alone. It comes with caveats, but Washington DC has so much more to offer than I expected. My top tip: the subreddit r/DCBitches was invaluable. The forum is described as: ‘A community for women, girls, and cis and trans women to vent and post your questions, concerns, issues and all things DC!’
Day 1: Monuments and Mexican
For breakfast, head to Pearl’s Bagels, where you’ll get the best bagels in DC (according to the Washington Post). I went for the Bees Knees for $12. Then, start at the Capitol Building, and walk down the National Mall, taking in the Washington Monument, the Reflecting Pond and the Lincoln Memorial. For lunch, try dLeña, an award-winning modern Mexican restaurant. I’m still thinking about the tuna guacamole ($21) and be sure to order a spicy marg ($15). After lunch, head to the Tidal Basin, where you’ll find the Martin Luther King Jr Memorial and Jefferson Memorial. The Tidal Basin is particularly popular in spring, when 3,700 cherry blossom trees bloom. For dinner, I ate at Bantam King, a low-key ramen joint in Chinatown (bowls from $17). Almost every person I met told me to eat at Le Diplomate, a French bistro affectionately known as Le Dip.
Day 2: Books, Georgetown, and Museums
For breakfast, walk to Kramer’s Books in Dupont Circle, a bookshop and cafe that has served customers since 1976, including Barack Obama and Andy Warhol. Then stroll to Georgetown, a charming neighbourhood with cobbled streets and federalist architecture. Pop into shops on M Street, see the diner where JFK proposed to Jackie O, and pick up a cupcake from Georgetown Cupcakes or gelato from Yala. Wander around Georgetown University and admire Healy Hall. For lunch, try Daily Provisions in Dupont Circle for a Tuna Melt ($13.50). In the afternoon, visit one of DC’s free museums like the Air and Space Museum or National Portrait Gallery, or the National Archives to see the Declaration of Independence. For dinner, get a table at the bar at All Purpose Pizza. For a night out, Jane Jane is a fun cocktail bar with an LGBTQ+ crowd, or Barcelona wine bar.
Day 3: History, Food, and Sport
Go for a run with a local run club, then take a guided walking tour of U Street with historian Briana Thomas. The U Street Corridor, once known as ‘Black Broadway’, is a hub of African American heritage. End at Ben’s Chili Bowl, a DC institution since 1958 – don’t miss the half-smoke. Alternatively, take the Metro to Union Market, a food hall with 40 vendors. For a final drink, head to the Mayflower hotel’s Edgar Bar & Kitchen, named after J Edgar Hoover. Finish with a Washington Capitals ice hockey game or another local team.
Where to Stay
The Marriott Bonvoy Westin Downtown is an ideal base, a 20-minute walk from the National Mall and five minutes from Gallery Pl-Chinatown Metro. Rooms are large with award-winning mattresses, and rates start at $179 per night. For more information, visit the website.
