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Shape Up Amid Tuscan Splendour: An 18th-Century Villa Fitness Retreat
An exquisite 18th-century villa nestled within the vineyards of the Chianti Classico countryside provides a magnificent and motivating backdrop for an intensive fitness retreat, as documented by Caroline Sylge.
Caroline Sylge Saturday 04 January 2014 00:00 GMT
An Uphill Battle Through Tuscan Hills
"Can we stop for a bit?" I whispered breathlessly. Having cycled uphill relentlessly for nearly two hours, my thighs screamed with agony, my entire body throbbing with exertion. Weakly lifting my head, I called out once more, "Drew?" My seat ached profoundly, and I welcomed the gentle Tuscan breeze cooling my flushed, sweaty cheek as I observed our personal trainer gliding back towards me, his face etched with concern.
At the roadside, with bicycles cast aside, my companion Fiona and I collapsed onto our carry mats, breathing heavily, allowing Drew to methodically stretch our taut, aching limbs. Cars navigated past us cautiously, drivers initially fearing a serious accident until they glimpsed our faces, creased with uncontrollable laughter sparked by endorphin release and the sheer hysteria of exhaustion.
Embracing the Rigorous Regime
I am not typically someone who savours a fitness-centric holiday – I would usually prefer a gentle, stretchy yoga session over pushing through demanding "cardio circuits" or gruelling uphill cycle rides like this one. It felt strange, therefore, that I was developing a genuine affection for this experience. Our structured days comprised 7am power walks or runs followed by stretching, two to three hours of intense exercise sessions, a prolonged immersion in a purpose-built "cold pool" to boost metabolism and enhance immunity, and "active rest" afternoons featuring activities like horse-riding or this very cycle excursion. Consequently, you can well imagine the considerable physical toll of the actual workouts.
The Transformative Influence of an Expert Trainer
My growing appreciation for the retreat was significantly influenced by Drew. A personal trainer with over fifteen years of experience, he possessed a unique quality that rendered following his instructions not just tolerable, but often enjoyable. Perhaps it was his soothing Welsh accent, or his dual commitment to mindfulness alongside physical fitness – many of his striking tattoos reference Buddhist teachings. He also maintained a light-hearted approach; his business card amusingly reads "Feel Good Without Your Clothes On". Above all, however, he proved to be a genuinely kind individual – from our initial electronic consultation to my departure day, I felt he sincerely cared about my personal goals for the week and understood the limits of what my body and mind could handle.
Tailored Training Despite Physical Limitations
Years of ballet had deteriorated the cartilage in both my knees to such an extent that I required keyhole surgery to shave it down. This means I cannot run for exercise or perform high-impact movements like burpees or deep squats, especially as I approach my mid-forties. Yet, my problematic knees did not deter Drew. By the time we arrived on Tuscan soil, he had already crafted an impressive, bespoke programme designed to strengthen my knees while ensuring I worked up a substantial sweat.
The Grandeur of a Historic Villa Setting
Being based at an elegant, cream-coloured 18th-century villa, encircled by vineyards in the Chianti Classico hills near Siena, undoubtedly enhanced the experience. Villa di Geggiano boasts long corridors, high ceilings, large green-shuttered windows, and majestic views. It mattered little that I wandered its halls in Sweaty Betty leggings rather than a flowing dress. The rooms were adorned with objets d'art, leather-bound books, and jewellery boxes – items that an institution like The National Trust would likely have secured behind glass cases and red ropes long ago. Our gracious hosts were Andrea and Alessandro Bianchi Bandinelli, two charming brothers who reside in the villa, which has been in their family since 1527.
Exercising Amidst Art and Architecture
Drew's morning exercise sessions were consistently challenging, but performing them in the garden, surrounded by classical sculptures and facing the stunning villa, made the effort feel considerably easier. We engaged in boxing (surprisingly enjoyable), core work on a Swiss ball (decidedly painful), training with kettlebells (imagine weights shaped like stylish little handbags), and TRX sessions (Total Body Resistance Exercise, using lengthy straps secured to a tree, which evoke the sensation of a horse tethered in place). Afterwards, I would retreat to the villa's elongated room, where ladies once took tea and exchanged gossip – trainers discarded, reclining on a satin sofa, gazing up at an intricately painted ceiling.
Scenic Power Walks and Cultural Excursions
The power walks meandered through vineyards offering uplifting vistas across the undulating Tuscan hills, making any discomfort in my calves feel worthwhile. I might have preferred the "cold pool" to be a hot tub, but it was a beautiful structure hand-built by Alessandro in a wooded section of the grounds, so I willingly endured the shivers. We even found time one afternoon to drive through the picturesque clay hills to visit the Abbey of Monte Oliveto Maggiore, a 14th-century monastery still inhabited by Benedictine monks and featuring remarkable frescoes.
Holistic Treatments and Restorative Balance
The most blissful moments of the break occurred when I was lying down, particularly during treatments with Drew's mother, Christine Perrott. She creates her own organic skincare products and practises holistic therapies including facial reflexology, aromatherapy massage, Thai foot massage, and reiki. Her gentle demeanour and seemingly magical hands facilitated deep, restorative sleep each night, providing a perfect counterbalance to the day's high-octane energy. When my muscles became particularly tight, Drew administered an exceptionally effective targeted deep-tissue massage, which worked wonders.
Accommodation Options and Personal Sanctuary
Guests can opt to stay within the main villa for a fully immersive historic experience. However, I found it refreshing to be based in a renovated garden pavilion featuring wooden floors, a firm bed, and a minimalist bathroom. Here, I indulged in daily salt baths using detoxifying soda crystals provided by Drew upon arrival, and meditated one morning to a serene soundtrack of birdsong and distant church bells.
Gourmet Nourishment with Local Flavours
Meals were enjoyed at a lengthy, aged wooden table, surrounded by walls adorned with murals of birds and flowers. On our final evening, we dined beside a grand open fireplace in the villa's former kitchen. The cuisine was far from abstemious – a high-protein, health-conscious menu of Italian dishes, expertly prepared by the Sri Lankan family chef, Damayanthi. Ingredients were locally sourced, including eggs, fish, meat, and abundant seasonal fruit and vegetables, often harvested directly from the villa's garden. Simple dishes like fennel drizzled with the villa's own extra virgin olive oil, or freshly roasted chestnuts, were highlights. Main courses featured delights such as baked sea bass with vegetables or pork with juniper berries and bay leaves. Even more gratifying was the occasional glass of red wine, produced directly from the Bandinelli family vineyards. I can particularly recommend the 2006 Reserve – after all, everyone acknowledges a glass of red wine offers health benefits, correct?
Lasting Fitness Benefits Beyond the Retreat
We not only survived the cycle ride – which lasted merely another hour – but conquered the entire programme. Did we emerge fitter? I believe it is impossible not to under Drew's watchful guidance. A month later, I continue to incorporate power swims and power walks into my routine four to five times weekly. And this is without the luxurious incentive of a Tuscan villa awaiting my return.
