A celebrated chef has publicly defended his two-Michelin-star restaurant in Wales after it was handed the lowest possible food hygiene rating by official inspectors.
Clash Over Culinary Standards
Gareth Ward, the chef-patron of Ynyshir Restaurant and Rooms near Machynlleth in Ceredigion, stated he is "not embarrassed" by the one-out-of-five score issued by the Food Standards Agency (FSA). The rating, meaning "major improvement necessary", followed an inspection by food safety officers in November 2025. The restaurant charges guests nearly £500 per person for its tasting menu experience.
Despite the critical assessment, Ward, a former contestant on BBC's MasterChef: The Professionals, argued that Ynyshir operates at the pinnacle of global culinary standards. He told the BBC that the establishment is merely pursuing a unique philosophy, particularly in its handling of raw and aged ingredients, which he believes conflicted with the inspectors' conventional guidelines.
Inspectors Question Raw and Aged Techniques
The FSA's published results indicated that the management of food safety at Ynyshir required major improvement, as did the cleanliness and condition of the facilities. Hygienic food handling was deemed generally satisfactory.
Ward detailed specific points of contention, revealing that inspectors questioned the provenance and safety of high-grade ingredients he serves raw. "I'm buying sashimi-grade fish from Japan, and they're questioning, 'Well, we don't know the water, so how do we know it's sashimi grade?'" he explained. "This stuff's eaten raw all over the world, and just because our rules don't fit their rules, they're questioning it."
He also cited the restaurant's use of a salt chamber for ageing fish as another practice that raised concerns during the inspection.
Chef Stands Firm on Innovative Approach
Striking a defiant tone, Ward expressed disappointment but not shame over the rating. "The people in life that push the hardest and think outside the box and do something different will always have to deal with this kind of stuff," he said. "My standards never drop below 100 per cent... What we have done is something different."
The Michelin Guide, which awards Ynyshir two of its coveted stars, describes the venue as offering a "truly unique experience", a stark contrast to the official hygiene evaluation.
In response to the situation, a spokesperson for Ceredigion County Council, which conducted the inspection, stated: "The Council stands by the professional judgement of our staff in applying UK food hygiene standards and will not be commenting further." The FSA reiterated that establishments receiving a low rating must make urgent or major improvements to their hygiene standards.
Ynyshir Restaurant and Rooms has been approached for additional comment on the matter.
