The End of Small Plates Era: Diners Crave Hearty Portions Over Tiny Bites
As British diners increasingly opt for old-school glamour and substantial servings over delicate, expensive small plates, a significant shift is underway in the nation's restaurant scene. The trend toward meal-out maximalism is making a notable comeback, driven by economic pressures and a growing fatigue with paltry portions.
From Fashionable to Frustrating
Small plates dining, once considered cool and adventurous, has lost its appeal for many consumers. What began as an innovative approach inspired by Venice's "ciccheti" culture has evolved into a predictable formula that leaves diners both hungry and financially strained. The typical small plates experience often involves sharing minimal portions like a single piece of salmon crudo or a third-serving of miso cabbage, with bills easily reaching £65 or more for an unsatisfying meal.
Celebrity endorsements from figures like Stanley Tucci at Duck Soup in Soho or Paul Mescal at Brat in Shoreditch once made small plates fashionable. Instagram feeds were filled with aesthetically arranged collections of small china plates, and singles mentioned them in dating profiles to signal sophistication. However, this à la mode dining has become passé as the novelty wears thin.
The Economic and Cultural Shift
According to data from OpenTable, 56 percent of UK diners now prefer individual menu options over sharing plates. This preference stems not just from financial concerns but from a desire for dining experiences that feel special and substantial. In today's economic climate, consumers are less willing to spend £20-£30 per plate for recommended three to four dishes that leave them wanting more.
Peter Harden of Harden's restaurant guide observes that the small plates trend has run its course. "For the last 10 to 15 years, East London has been the gentrifying frontier with these hip, artisanal restaurants," he says. "But I think we can say fairly conclusively that this type of eating is no longer radical. There's a definite possibility the trend is running its course."
The Descent into Farce
The small plates phenomenon has reached a point of parody, with TikTok creators mocking the predictable formula of biodynamic wine, roasted vegetables, and industrial decor. One successful content creator has invented a fictional restaurant called Prick, satirizing the condescending attitude and minimal portions. Meanwhile, menus have introduced "snack" sections charging £10 for a single chicken nugget, pushing the concept toward absurdity.
Instagram commentator Socks House Meeting identifies a three-tier structure to the trend: authentic natural wine restaurants, gastropub-style establishments, and unexpected venues like Wetherspoons rebranding starters as small plates. This dilution has accelerated the backlash against the entire concept.
The Return to Restaurant Maximalism
In response, there's been a noticeable bounce toward traditional dining with generous portions and reliable comfort foods. Recent London openings like Field Notes in London Fields and The Hart in Marylebone feature simple, filling menus with staples like steak and potatoes or fish stew, emphasizing satisfaction over frills.
Sasha Shaker, Senior Director at OpenTable UK and Ireland, notes that nostalgia plays a significant role, particularly among Gen Z diners. "Retro comfort dishes like bangers and mash (29 percent) and prawn cocktail (28 percent) are among the dishes they'd love to see on menus in 2026," she explains.
Old-School Glamour Makes a Comeback
During economic uncertainty, dining out has become a treat that consumers want to feel genuinely luxurious. Establishments like Martino's in Sloane Square, which opened to rave reviews in November, embrace old-school glamour with linen tablecloths and attentive service. Harden reflects on this shift: "Polished hipster concrete and low lighting is nice, but people are always going to like comfy chairs. Sometimes, you just want lots of people being extremely nice to you and making you feel important."
The movement away from small plates represents more than a culinary trend—it's a cultural recalibration toward value, comfort, and traditional dining pleasures in challenging times.
