Shwen Shwen: A Vibrant Afro-Fusion Gem in Sevenoaks
My knowledge of Sierra Leonean cooking might once have fit on a bottle cap, but after a transformative evening at Shwen Shwen, Maria Bradford's exhilarating Afro-fusion restaurant in Sevenoaks, I am utterly captivated. This establishment radiates unbridled joy from every corner, with its pillar-box red chairs, sumptuous Sierra Leonian fabrics adorning pillows and banquettes, warm umber walls, antique framed photographs, and service as sweet and comforting as freshly baked ginger cake.
An Exhilarating Start to the Meal
We began with chicken skewers featuring two plump thighs, gently charred and infused with a throaty chilli and lemongrass aroma. This dish elevates street food to an art form, balancing refinement with bold, gutsy flavours that hint at the culinary journey ahead. Next, the plantain 'hand pie' arrived, with the fruit deep-fried to a burnished chewiness, topped with a tart tomato sauce and a scattering of fresh cheese, disappearing in two glorious bites.
Transforming Everyday Ingredients
A bushel of Tenderstem broccoli followed, lavished with sesame paste, peanuts, and shito—a wonderfully complex and elegantly fiery Ghanaian condiment. This combination transforms a humble vegetable into a heady umami riot, showcasing Bradford's innovative approach. Then came king prawns, cooked whole with a hefty dose of her own Salone Fire hot sauce, viciously red and packing a bracing kick. They were sticky, sweet, and succulent, with any excess capsaicin tempered by an intense lemongrass gel, demonstrating her superlative balance of flavours as we savoured every last scrap.
The Culinary Highlight and Sweet Finale
The pinnacle of the meal was a beef short-rib stew, featuring a wobbling monolith of fat-laced lasciviousness bathed in an intricately spiced gravy with a slow-building chilli heat. Reminiscent of Malaysian curries despite the 8,000-mile separation, it speaks to the legacy of trade routes and Empire. Accompanied by a fresh-baked flatbread lavished with honey, it left us craving more. For dessert, coconut ice cream giddy with rum and woody, peppery grains of Selim provided a perfect, refreshing end.
Accolades and Exceptional Value
Shwen Shwen holds a Michelin Bib Gourmand, widely regarded as the most reliable of the tyre flogger's accolades, and offers a tasting menu of eight courses for £75, representing exceptional value. The wine list is equally commendable. While Bradford's technique is expertly polished, each bite exudes a lightness, vibrancy, and sheer visceral joy. Outside, the skies may be grey and the rain torrential, but inside Shwen Shwen, all is bathed in brilliant sun, making it a must-visit destination for food enthusiasts.
Price: £29 for three courses. Location: Shwen Shwen, 1-2 Bank St, Sevenoaks TN13.
