What drives someone to traverse Paris in search of the perfect steak frites? For pub owner Tom and writer Ben Aitken, this wasn't merely a culinary whim but a serious mission to elevate a classic dish back in London.
The Philosophy Behind the Plate
Steak frites, that quintessential French brasserie staple, rose to prominence during the 19th century as Paris's growing urban working class sought hearty, affordable meals. Today, it remains a fixture on prix fixe menus alongside coq au vin and duck confit.
The dish's cultural significance wasn't lost on philosopher Roland Barthes, who dedicated serious thought to it in his essay collection Mythologies. Barthes saw the combination of juicy beef representing vitality and humble chips creating what amounted to a dialectic on a plate - proving this simple dish carries weight far beyond its basic components.
The Parisian Steak Crawl Begins
Taking advantage of Eurostar Snap fares costing just £90 return, the duo began their culinary investigation within three hours of leaving London.
Their first stop was Robert et Louise in the Marais, a homely establishment operating since the 1950s that cooks steaks over an open fireplace. The entrecôte (ribeye) served with sauteed potatoes and a green salad scored highly at 8/10, with the medium rare preparation allowing the fat to render perfectly.
After a respectable interval, they crossed the Seine to Brasserie Lipp on Boulevard Saint-Germain. Founded in 1880, this classy joint with vast mirrors and gleaming banquettes served a rump steak that proved merely average, with fries that lacked crispness. The most memorable aspect was their waiter François, who explained his lapel number indicated his standing in the restaurant's pecking order. Scoring 6.5/10, this historic venue disappointed.
Unexpected Discoveries and a Winner Emerges
Following François' recommendation, they visited Le Pick-Clops, a laid-back bistro popular with students. Here they sampled onglet (butcher's steak) served with dauphinoise potatoes and blue cheese sauce. Despite some chewiness in the cut, the combination worked beautifully, earning 8.5/10. When asked for further recommendations, the bartender offered surprising advice: "Any place can do this dish. Don't think about it. Just go."
Their online research led them to Bouillon République on Boulevard du Temple, part of the bouillon tradition of serving classic dishes at good prices. While the retro decor impressed, the rump steak proved challenging to chew and the fries tasted previously cooked, resulting in another 6.5/10 score.
Remembering the bartender's advice to "go nowhere," they stumbled into Le Bastringue along Canal Saint-Martin. The atmosphere proved deliciously Gallic, and the poire de boeuf - a pear-shaped cut from the top hind leg - served with miniature roast potatoes and shallot sauce became their surprise winner at 9/10. By requesting toutes les sauces (every sauce on the menu), they tripled their dipping options and discovered that sometimes ignoring the hype and simply going anywhere yields the best results.
The London Legacy
Waiting for their train home at Gare du Nord, Tom began sketching his perfect steak frites. By journey's end, he'd settled on the winning combination: onglet steak with skinny chips, Dijon mustard and dressed leaves - now available at his London pub, the Carlton Tavern.
As for Ben Aitken, his perfect steak frites contains no fixed elements but rather emerges unexpectedly - the one that takes you by surprise, proving that culinary perfection often lies not in following guides but in embracing serendipity.
