The Mirror's travel editor Milo Boyd recently ventured to Exmouth Market in London to sample the fare at Mikkeller Bar, a brewpub quietly co-owned by 1980s musical legend Rick Astley. What he discovered was a surprisingly affordable dining experience in a city known for eye-watering prices, paying just £18.50 for chicken and chips at the establishment linked to the 'Never Gonna Give You Up' hitmaker.
The Celebrity Restaurant Boom
It appears that celebrities from all walks of life are increasingly investing in the hospitality industry. From Ian McKellen's The Grapes to James Blunt's Fox and Pheasant, rugby star Gavin Henson's The Fox, and Ed Sheeran's Bertie Blossoms, famous faces are putting their names and money behind pubs and restaurants across the UK.
This trend raises questions about why stars are drawn to such notoriously difficult ventures. The restaurant industry is famously challenging to profit from, and celebrity-backed establishments have a checkered history. Planet Hollywood, launched in 1991 with backing from Bruce Willis, Arnold Schwarzenegger, and Sylvester Stallone, filed for bankruptcy within years. Fashion Cafe, fronted by supermodels Naomi Campbell and Claudia Schiffer, followed a similar trajectory.
The Authenticity Question
Gemma Krysko, co-director of Manchester-based PR agency We Are Indigo, suggests that celebrities who don't prominently attach their names or faces to hospitality ventures have the best chance of success. "People like the authenticity of a restaurant being owned by a family or an independent, or someone who's working really hard to do well in life and have some success," she explained to Vice. "Sometimes, when people already have a successful background or are quite well off do something, it might feel like it's a bit tacky."
Rick Astley's Low-Key Venture
Mikkeller represents an interesting case study in this celebrity restaurant phenomenon. With over 250 branches across 37 countries, it's far from an independent operation. Yet two of its London venues—Mikkeller Bar London in Shoreditch and its sister brewpub on Exmouth Market—are the quiet work of Rick Astley, who has kept his involvement remarkably discreet.
Visitors to the Exmouth Market location would be forgiven for not realizing Astley's connection. The venue features a stylish striped yellow awning, rust-effect signage, and outdoor seating that comes alive in sunny weather. During a January visit to escape the rain, our reviewer discovered a two-floor establishment containing a bar, restaurant, and an in-house brewery capable of producing 7.5 hectoliters of beer at a time.
The Dining Experience
The industrial-chic interior features large chrome-brushed beer silos and dramatic towers of stacked potato sacks, creating a distinctive atmosphere that feels slightly reminiscent of 2010s exposed-design trends. While the menu contains no obvious Rick Astley Easter eggs, it does offer an impressive selection of craft beers.
A pint of Freshly Squipped IPA paired with a Lucky Saint on draft for a Dry January companion came to £14.30—fairly standard pricing for this part of London. Astley enthusiasts might detect subtle references in drink names like Never Enough, Jerry the Berry, and Grandma's Fridge Cake, though the singer's own ginger-infused lager, Astley's Northern Hop, was conspicuously absent.
Surprisingly Good Value Food
Given Astley's background primarily in music—with side ventures including voice work for The LEGO Batman Movie, fundraising for Maggie's Cancer Centers, and working in his father's market-gardening business—there's little to suggest he'd excel in the chicken and chips business. Yet according to our reviewer, he's done exactly that.
Three people dined for £55 and left "stuffed and satisfied," a stark contrast to a recent visit to James Blunt's pub where prices forced budget-conscious choices. The Mikkeller meal included two portions of crinkle cut fries, crispy plant nuggets, a vegan fried chick'n sandwich, and two meaty chicken sandwiches.
Both sandwich varieties were served on brioche 'Texas toast' with 'Comeback Sauce,' pickles, and vinegar slaw. The vegan chick'n demonstrated impressive texture—crisp, bouncy, and tender—while the chicken version was described as "excellent" by dining companions. Other menu options include chicken parm, Caesar salad, and fried chicken strips.
Final Verdict
Mikkeller Bar London won't win awards for restaurant innovation anytime soon. Stylistically, it has more in common with chains like Five Guys and BrewDog than with cozy celebrity-owned pubs. However, it delivers exactly what it promises: a spacious, centrally-located London brewpub with a great, reasonably priced menu perfect for Saturday afternoon indulgence.
In a city where celebrity restaurants often come with celebrity price tags, Rick Astley's low-key venture offers refreshingly good value alongside quality food and drink. The £18.50 chicken and chips represents a relative bargain in London's competitive dining scene, proving that sometimes celebrity-backed establishments can deliver substance alongside their famous connections.
