Despite not being British, Raymond Blanc is a national treasure. The legendary TV chef has graced our screens for decades, his soothing French accent radiating warmth in kitchens and living rooms throughout the country he has proudly called home since 1972.
Blanc's Favourite Pub
Blanc transformed his flagship restaurant, Le Manoir in Oxfordshire, into one of Britain's finest - yet when pressed to name his favourite pub, one establishment immediately came to mind: "I like very much The Devonshire in Soho, run by my friend Ashley Palmer-Watts," the chef revealed, adding: "Always great food and brimming with conviviality."
The Devonshire, nestled in the heart of London, has become a social media sensation, and is easily reachable by a short train journey from cities across the UK. From Cardiff, for instance, you could arrive in just over two hours - and I can say with absolute certainty it is worth every minute of travel. The pub has built its stellar reputation on two things: its outstanding cuisine and the exceptional quality of its Guinness.
What Can You Expect at The Devonshire?
Situated in central London, just a minute's stroll from Piccadilly Circus underground station along a narrow side street, this establishment has stood in some form since 1793. It's a strikingly handsome pub from the outside - and the crowds of punters enjoying pints on the pavement every single night of the week speaks volumes about its enduring popularity.
Inside, it's equally lively, though far from overwhelming. Softly lit and buzzing with both London's after-work crowd and tourists, it's the sort of establishment where you could quite happily while away the hours. Yet despite the Guinness, the green décor and Irish landlord Oisin Rogers, this is no Irish pub. And not everybody inside is on the Guinness, either.
Food at The Devonshire
Raymond Blanc singled out the food as one of the key reasons the Devonshire stands out. Having dined there myself, I couldn't agree more. You'll need to be sharp to secure a table - bookings open every Thursday at 10.30am for three weeks ahead, and spots vanish fast!
The kitchen is helmed by chef Ashley Palmer-Watts, who spent 20 years at Heston Blumenthal's three-starred Fat Duck. The menu is unfussy and rooted in hearty British classics. I struggle to recall tasting anything quite like the rich, creamy sauce accompanying my scallops and bacon starter (£18), delicately sharpened with malt vinegar.
Thank goodness a complimentary freshly-baked bread roll arrived - salty and wonderfully soft - to soak it all up. Leaving a single drop of that sauce behind would have been nothing short of criminal.
My main of beef cheek and Guinness suet pudding arrived encased in a gloriously dense, meaty pastry crafted from flour and beef fat (£26). I opted for two sides: irresistibly crispy duck fat chips (£6) and peas, onion and bacon (£6). Their simplicity - and generous helping of salt and fat - made them utterly brilliant. Pudding consisted of chocolate mousse, cherries and cream (£9) which was every bit as delicious as it sounds. The final bill totalled £73 including service. Alternatively, diners can opt for a set menu offering three courses for £29 (or two for £25).
What Makes the Guinness at The Devonshire Supposedly So Exceptional?
The Devonshire has repeatedly been hailed as serving the finest pint of Guinness available. TikTok and Instagram are both brimming with punters sharing their verdict on whether this reputation holds true. The pub shifts an astonishing 55 barrels of Guinness nightly, and the landlord reveals that its superior quality stems from multiple factors, though they all centre on meticulous care.
For instance, it flows through a completely separate pipe system from the pub's other beers ("nothing goes through here apart from Guinness", says Oisin) and it's served at a warmer temperature than in most establishments. The Guinness pipes differ in diameter from standard ones and there's even a specially formulated gas blend in the pumps which influences how it pours and the consistency of Guinness's iconic velvety head. Beyond the cellar, bar staff operate a system where multiple pints are perpetually half-poured on the bar to cope with the constant demand.
Does the Guinness Truly Live Up to the Hype?
Many people swear that Guinness tastes different depending on the pub, though I could never see how that was possible given it's mass-produced in a single location and distributed in identical barrels. Yet the moment I took my first sip, I realised I'd been mistaken. It was genuinely distinct and noticeably superior to your typical pint of Guinness - which is already a great pint.
It was sensational. I still can't stop thinking about it. At £7.20 a pint, it's hardly unusual for London, particularly at a venue that has become a genuine tourist attraction in its own right.
Is The Devonshire Worth a Visit?
I find myself firmly in agreement with Raymond Blanc: this ranks amongst the finest pubs I've ever set foot in. It has been rightly described as a "masterclass in hospitality", so whether you're after exceptional food, outstanding Guinness or simply a brilliant pub to while away the hours, here's my final verdict: you won't find anywhere better.
