British travel writer Colleen Sims, who has walked the Camino de Santiago 24 times, has named Mérida as her favourite Spanish city. Sims, who has visited Spain since the 1980s and honeymooned in Seville, has explored more than 23 Spanish cities but keeps returning to the capital of Extremadura.
A Roman City with Provincial Charm
Mérida has a population of around 60,000, but its centre feels more like a provincial town, according to Sims. The city was once one of the most important Roman cities, yet despite its 2,000 years of history, it remains surprisingly unknown to many travellers.
Sims first walked into Mérida while following the Via de la Plata Camino, a 1,000km route from Seville to Santiago. She stayed in the pilgrim albergue, found a simple menú del día and joined the lively crowds in Plaza de España at night. She loved the city mainly for its Roman history and stayed an extra day before walking on.
Roman Heritage and Local Gastronomy
Mérida boasts a magnificent Roman theatre and amphitheatre, where live performances are still staged during the summer. Visitors can also discover the Temple of Diana, the Roman bridge, aqueducts, circus and the National Museum of Roman Art. Beyond its Roman heritage, the city has a Moorish history, excellent restaurants and very good local wine.
On a later visit with her husband Gerry, they stayed at the Parador, which Sims said was absolutely worth it. They ate at Malcriao Restaurante, just off Plaza de España, and also had dinner in the Parador, which she described as one of the best Parador meals they have had, including a platter of thinly aged carved local ham. La Carbonería and Sybarit Gastroshop are also excellent choices, and many bars and restaurants in the centre offer tapas and an excellent menú del día.
Local Wines and Traditional Dishes
The regional wine denomination is D.O. Ribera del Guadiana, and many of its red wines are based on Tempranillo. Sims advises asking for a local house wine or choosing a Ribera del Guadiana from the menu. A favourite dish was Torta del Casar, a local sheep's cheese perfect for sharing, while Gerry recommended caldereta de cordero, a traditional slow-cooked lamb stew made with peppers, garlic, paprika and wine.
Sims, who is gluten-free, noted that celiac is very understood in Spain and she can always find good safe choices. She described Mérida as compact and walkable, with a relaxed, lived-in atmosphere, and not as glitzy as Spain's popular tourist destinations, which is part of its charm.
Their last visit was in December when the city was decorated with Christmas lights. Easter is another important time to visit, and in summer concerts and plays are staged in the Roman Theatre. Sims plans to return one day for a performance.
