A celebrated two-Michelin-starred restaurant in Wales has found itself at the centre of a culinary controversy after receiving a low score in a recent food hygiene inspection.
World-Class Dining Meets Regulatory Scrutiny
Ynyshir, the acclaimed restaurant with rooms located near Machynlleth on the edge of Eryri (Snowdonia) National Park, was awarded just one star out of a possible five by Food Standards Agency officers during a visit on 5 November. The rating indicates that "major improvement" is necessary according to the official scale.
This result stands in stark contrast to the establishment's stellar culinary reputation. Opened in 2013, Ynyshir earned its first Michelin star a year later and secured a second in 2022, becoming the first restaurant in Wales to hold the coveted double-star status. It has been globally praised as one of the world's finest dining destinations, with tasting menus starting from £468 per person.
Chef's Defence: A Clash of Culinary Art and Regulation
Chef patron Gareth Ward, a former MasterChef: The Professionals contestant, stated he was "not embarrassed" by the hygiene score. He attributed the low rating primarily to inspectors' concerns over the restaurant's use of specialised raw and aged ingredients, which are central to its innovative cuisine.
"I'm buying sashimi-grade fish from Japan and they're questioning, 'Well, we don't know the water, so how do we know it's sashimi grade?'" Ward explained to the BBC. "This stuff's eaten raw all over the world. I've got a salt chamber for ageing fish but they obviously don't like the idea of ageing stuff."
Ward emphasised his confidence in the restaurant's safety protocols, highlighting a £50,000 freezer capable of reaching temperatures of -80C (-112F) and the employment of a specialist compliance company. Following the inspection, independent laboratory tests on the restaurant's fish found no issues.
Paperwork Problems and Planned Changes
The chef acknowledged that the food safety officers were "not 100% wrong" and admitted to administrative shortcomings. "Some of our paperwork wasn't right, and that's our fault," he said. "Sometimes you miss stuff or sometimes you write stuff down wrong... I'd need a full-time office worker doing the paperwork to get it perfect every time."
In response to the inspection, Ward has already installed an additional hand-washing station in the fish preparation area. A spokesperson for Ynyshir confirmed the business has requested a reinspection, though no date has yet been set.
Under the laws in Wales and Northern Ireland, all food businesses must display their hygiene rating prominently. The case highlights the occasional tension between cutting-edge gastronomy and standardized food safety regulations, even within the UK's most decorated kitchens.
