The owner of Wales' sole two-Michelin-star restaurant has robustly defended his kitchen's standards after it received a one-star food hygiene rating, suggesting inspectors failed to understand his use of premium sashimi and aged ingredients.
Inspectors Demand 'Major Improvement'
Environmental health officials stated that 'major improvement' was necessary at the renowned Ynyshir restaurant in Machynlleth following an inspection on November 5. The report highlighted concerns over the 'cleanliness and condition' of the facilities and the 'management of food safety'.
While the hygiene of food handling was deemed 'generally satisfactory', the £468-per-person establishment was marked down for its layout, ventilation, hand washing facilities and pest control.
Chef's Defence: A Clash of Culinary Cultures
Head chef and owner Gareth Ward, 45, has publicly contested the findings. He argued that the inspection misunderstood his specialised techniques, particularly concerning raw and aged products central to his tasting menu.
'We buy in the best ingredients from around the world and a lot of it I serve raw,' Ward told the BBC. 'I’m buying sashimi-grade fish from Japan and they’re questioning, "Well, we don’t know the water, so how do we know it’s sashimi grade?"'
He expressed frustration that his methods, heavily inspired by Japanese cuisine, were being judged against conventional standards. Ward also cited his use of a salt chamber for ageing Welsh wagyu beef for 300 days as another point of contention, claiming inspectors 'obviously don’t like the idea of ageing stuff'.
High Praise Amidst Controversy
The controversy comes just after celebrity chef James Martin lavished praise on Ward, calling him 'the greatest chef in the UK at the moment' and Ynyshir 'the best place to eat in the world'. The restaurant, named the UK's best in 2022 and 2023, offers a 30-course dining experience lasting up to five hours.
Ward insists his team operates at 'the highest standard in the world'. In response to the report, he sent fish for independent laboratory testing, which returned 'absolutely clear' results. He acknowledged some administrative issues, which he says were fixed 'immediately', including installing an extra hand-washing sink and correcting paperwork.
'The kitchen is open, everyone can see everything, the place is immaculate,' Ward concluded. A spokesperson for Ynyshir confirmed they are working cooperatively with Environmental Health and have requested an early reinspection.
