The Phoenix Rises: Manzi's Returns to Soho
For decades, Manzi's was a beloved fixture in London's West End, a stone's throw from Leicester Square. First opening its doors in the 1920s, it built a formidable reputation by serving classics like Dover sole and dressed crab to city dwellers craving a taste of the sea. After a period of decline, the original institution finally closed its doors in 2006, fading into memory.
However, the upmarket restaurant world, much like nature, cannot tolerate a vacuum. The iconic name has been resurrected by The Wolseley Group—the new owners who took over the business from original founder Jeremy King. The new Manzi's is located just a brief walk from its former home, nestled on a less glamorous Soho backstreet, affectionately known by locals as Piss Alley.
A Theatrical Undersea Kingdom
Stepping inside is a dramatic experience. The interior is drenched in a striking, icy Arctic blue, evoking the sensation of being inside a giant Fox’s Glacier Mint. The seafood theme is not merely hinted at; it is embraced with high-camp extravagance.
Guests are greeted by a full-size marlin, a clear nod to Ernest Hemingway's The Old Man and the Sea. The stern gaze of Poseidon, holding his trident and a lamp, looks down from a wall, while lithe mermaids elegantly support the bar. It’s a design that is far from subtle, but it creates a distinctly lovely, if expensively rococo, atmosphere.
Highs and Lows on the Menu
The menu has its moments of triumph. A splendidly old-school prawn cocktail features a pert pile of small crustaceans on shredded lettuce, all smothered in a sharp marie rose sauce and finished with a lusty sprinkle of cayenne pepper, presented in a silver goblet.
Another success is the niçoise salad, which correctly uses high-quality tinned tuna rather than fresh, as tradition dictates. It’s generously portioned, though marks were deducted for the use of fresh, rather than preserved, anchovies.
Yet, danger lurks in these pellucid waters. A yellowfin tuna tartare was found lacking, missing the essential clean acidity and burdened by an overly creamy dressing. More alarmingly, a hake dish was so aggressively salty it was rendered inedible, with one diner taking a single bite before leaving the rest.
A Struggle for Atmosphere
Beyond the plate, the restaurant faces other challenges. On a recent visit, the dining room was barely half full, populated by a noticeably older crowd, likely drawn in by an excellent-value £16 set menu. Despite the beautiful fittings, the overall ambiance was funereal, possessing all the cheer of a Trappist wake.
While Manzi's is not a bad restaurant, the experience is ultimately forgettable. The conclusion is that one simply wouldn't return. Like the protagonist in Hemingway's famed novel, it feels prudent to cut one's losses and head, disconsolately, for home.
The cost was about £40 per head. Manzi’s is located at 1-8 Bateman’s Buildings, London W1.
