A New Contender for London's Most Unusual Restaurant
Until recently, Punk Royale held the title of the strangest restaurant experience of the year, but it has been decisively overtaken by a new establishment located less than half a mile away in a repurposed office block. Lilibet's opened its doors in mid-September with minimal publicity, instantly establishing itself as a uniquely eccentric addition to London's dining scene.
Step Into a Royalist Fever Dream
From the moment you enter, Lilibet's transports you to a world that feels both ancient and fantastical. The interior, designed by Russell Sage Studio, evokes what the Palace of Versailles might have looked like if its designers had been given free rein. The space features antique fireplaces, floral chairs and wallpaper, numerous gilt-framed 18th-century French paintings, elegant etched glassware, monogrammed napkins, and tall dinner candles. The remarkable achievement is how convincingly ancient everything feels and smells, despite the restaurant having been open for only a few weeks.
The restaurant is the brainchild of Ross Shonhan, former Nobu executive chef and founder of the Bone Daddies ramen chain. It bears the childhood nickname of Queen Elizabeth II, with the establishment claiming the monarch was born in this very building on 21 April 1926, when the site was still a Mayfair townhouse.
A Menu Fit for Royalty
The culinary offering pays tribute to Her Majesty through a multimillion-pound, turbo-chintz dining experience serving inventive dishes that match the extravagant surroundings. The menu features fire-roasted beef-fat oysters, deluxe seafood platters, anchovy eclairs, trou Normand, and a notably regal-sounding fish triptych.
This triptych allows diners to select a fish—gurnard, sea bass, or sea bream—which is then prepared in three distinct ways: crudo, grilled, and as a soup made à la minute from its bones. This approach represents a fantastically eco-friendly way to utilise the entire fish.
Among the standout dishes is the freshly made ricotta agnolotti with sage and lemon sauce, described as "really very, very good." The reviewer particularly recommends the Dover sole, expertly filleted tableside and served with Café de Paris butter, accompanied by Lilibet's mash topped with shellfish bisque and lobster meat. For non-fish options, the veal Holstein escalope and bone-in ribeye also receive high praise.
The dessert menu continues the theatrical theme, featuring a puzzling steak sandwich prego alongside more conventional options like crepe suzette, princess sponge cake with raspberries and almonds, and a dramatic pile of choux à la crème that arrives on a glass stand before being covered in an entire jug of hot chocolate sauce.
An Unforgettable Dining Experience
What makes Lilibet's remarkable is that the extraordinary decor is matched by excellent food and atmosphere. The restaurant delivers pure joy, high drama, and camp theatricality in an utterly unique package that would be impossible to replicate elsewhere.
It's the perfect venue for entertaining out-of-town visitors, neglected lovers, or difficult clients who will be sufficiently distracted by both the decor and the quality of the food. Additional recommended dishes include fritto misto, warm pittas with spiced tomato salsa, and chrysanthemum salad with Caesar dressing.
Located at 17 Bruton Street, London W1, Lilibet's operates with lunch service Wednesday through Saturday from noon to 2:30pm and dinner Tuesday through Saturday from 5:30 to 11pm. Prices start from approximately £50 per head à la carte, with a set lunch offering two courses for £29 or three courses for £34, plus drinks and service.
The reviewer concludes that despite any skepticism about the royal backstory, Lilibet's represents an endlessly lovable experience and has earned the distinction of being their new favourite restaurant—a fairytale dining adventure where you can happily eat mash topped with lobster while immersed in pure theatrical delight.
