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Leros: Greece's Enchanting Island That Transformed From Outcast Haven to Idyllic Retreat
Don't be misled by its historical monikers—the "Isle of Outcasts" or "Island of the Damned." Leros, a captivating Dodecanese destination, embodies the quintessential Greek island fantasy. This hidden treasure boasts beachfront tavernas, picturesque windmills, and exceptionally welcoming locals, as documented by Sarah Holt.
A Past Shrouded in Turmoil
Observing the tranquil scene from a sun-drenched table at a waterfront cafe in Agia Marina, Leros's principal town, it becomes challenging to reconcile the island's serene present with its tumultuous history. Fishermen meticulously repair their nets on the dock while multicoloured fishing boats gently sway, their sides kissed by the lapping sea. A young boy enthusiastically pulls platinum-scaled fish from the water using a simple handline.
A brief examination of historical records reveals Leros endured significant hardship. It was the second most heavily bombed Greek island during the Second World War. Later, it served as an internment site for political prisoners under the Greek junta dictatorship throughout the 1960s and 1970s. The 1990s witnessed the closure of a psychiatric hospital following revelations of deplorable patient treatment.
Peaceful Present-Day Charms
Today, however, scant evidence of this turbulent past remains visible. Aside from a meticulously maintained war cemetery, a compact military museum, a few decaying gun battery remnants, and an acoustic military mirror on the west coast, Leros presents a picture of undisturbed tranquillity. Merely a ninety-minute ferry journey from the more bustling and familiar Kos, Leros stands out as one of the most relaxed Greek islands experienced by many travellers.
Agia Marina, clustered around a ferry port scarcely larger than an average back garden, forms a charming collection of independent boutiques specialising in linen, ceramics, and jewellery. These sit alongside private studio apartments, traditional tavernas, and popular gyros eateries. The town features a delightful pair of bakeries renowned for their speciality Lerian cheese pies—a delectable combination of feta, pastry, and a delicate cinnamon dusting.
Unhurried Island Rhythms
Service throughout Agia Marina maintains a uniformly relaxed and cheerful pace. One afternoon at Ta Kroupia grill, a leisurely lunch effortlessly consumed two hours. The meal featured sizzling baked feta arriving directly to the table, freshly prepared tzatziki, soft pillowy pitta bread, and several glasses of chilled white wine. This unfolded while locals casually enjoyed plates of Leros's signature salted mackerel dish nearby.
The Lerian capital also hosts several distinctive bars. Diamanti Cafe creatively employs Singer sewing machine stands as tables, while a pet parrot named Coffii entertains (and occasionally embarrasses) bar staff with a repertoire of Greek obscenities. Meanwhile, Meltimi resembles an antiques emporium more than a conventional bar, thanks to its extensive nautical-themed decor.
Historical Landmarks and Coastal Beauty
Agia Marina's most prominent landmark is undoubtedly Pandeli Castle. Perched dramatically atop a clifftop approximately 150 metres above the town, its foundations trace back to Byzantine times, constructed upon the site of an ancient acropolis reminiscent of Athens. While driving to the summit remains possible, many visitors opt for the more rewarding 500-step switchback path ascending from the village of Platanos, a short stroll from Agia Marina's waterfront. This climb reveals progressively breathtaking panoramic views encompassing both the island's east and west coasts.
Beyond the castle, Leros's iconic windmills serve as enduring symbols. Arranged in a ceremonial line along the hillside above Panteli fishing village on the east coast, these distinctive jam jar-shaped structures historically ground wheat and barley into flour during the 18th century, similar to their more famous counterparts on Mykonos. Today, thoughtfully restored, one windmill now houses Harris cocktail bar, where an al fresco terrace offers stunning vistas over Panteli harbour and the multi-hued blues of the Aegean Sea beyond.
Pristine Beaches and Local Produce
The coastline of Leros is generously adorned with beautiful beaches. Alinda, the longest beach accessible via a thirty-five-minute walk from Agia Marina, features waters so clear they make cut crystal appear cloudy. Its smooth pebble sand is flanked by traditional tavernas. At Argo taverna, securing a table beneath the shade of a tamarisk tree allows for a leisurely lunch of keftedes (traditional Greek meatballs), accompanied by the soothing soundtrack of gently breaking waves and cheerful conversation.
Remarkably for an island measuring less than thirty square miles, Leros supports both a brewery and a winery. Raven Brewing's pale ales are proudly served in bars across the island. Meanwhile, Isichi Ampelones winery opens for tours and tastings during summer months. Nestled within the brush-stubbled hills of the island's northeast, it creates an oasis-like atmosphere. Tastings occur on a vine-curtained terrace, complemented by Greek nibbles including olives and local cheeses.
A particular highlight for many visitors is a red wine produced from mandilaria grapes, exhibiting aromatic notes of fireside smoke and cocoa. It's common for guests to depart somewhat encumbered, having purchased multiple bottles to savour later.
Architectural Legacy and Final Reflections
A visit to Lakki provides a fitting conclusion to any Leros itinerary. Boasting one of the largest natural harbours in the Mediterranean, Lakki Bay attracted the attention of Benito Mussolini during the 1920s when Leros was under Italian administration. Aspiring to transform the area into the "Corregidor of the Mediterranean"—a crucial defensive point for controlling the eastern Mediterranean—the dictator commissioned architects to construct a new model town in the Italian rationalist style.
The lingering imprint of Mussolini's ambitious vision remains visible today in Lakki's distinctive architecture, which evokes a faded South Beach Miami aesthetic rather than typical Greek island vernacular. Enjoying a final glass of wine at a waterfront cafe in Lakki, while observing sailboats gracefully navigating the bay, prompts reflection on the island's former nickname. If this truly constitutes an island for outcasts, many would willingly accept expulsion here without hesitation.
Practical Travel Information
No airlines currently operate direct flights to Leros, with most journeys requiring connections through Athens, Kos, or other Greek islands. Regional carriers such as Olympic Air provide services to Leros. Blue Star Ferries operates sailings from Kos Town to Agia Marina in Leros up to five times weekly, with average one-way fares costing approximately £13.83.
For accommodation, Crithoni's Paradise Hotel near Alinda offers an outdoor pool and proximity to the sea, with prices starting from around £41. Alternatively, a three-night stay in a converted windmill at Leros Windmills presents a uniquely memorable way to experience the island.
This feature was initially published in July 2025 and has since been updated with current information.
