Jeremy King Bets on Edwardian Grandeur to Revive Historic Simpson's in the Strand
Nearly two centuries after its initial opening on the Strand, Simpson's has returned to the London dining scene, with eminent restaurateur Jeremy King placing a bold wager that old-school carving trolleys and a touch of Edwardian splendour can once again captivate modern diners. Hannah Twiggs provides an exclusive first look inside this historic reopening, scheduled for Thursday, 12 March 2026.
The Star of the Show: The Silver Carving Trolley
In the Grand Divan dining room, the famous silver carving trolley takes centre stage, where waiters expertly slice roast beef directly onto plates in a ritual that has defined Simpson's for over a hundred years. Accompanied by Yorkshire puddings and rich gravy, this performance unfolds with a calm precision that evokes Edwardian London rather than contemporary Soho. This deliberate anachronism is precisely the point.
Founded in 1828, Simpson's has weathered wars, rationing, social upheaval, and most recently, the pandemic that forced its closure in 2020. Its revival under Jeremy King resurrects one of the capital's most storied restaurants, now standing as one of its most distinctive. In a city often dominated by fast, casual, and trend-driven eateries, Simpson's represents a nearly extinct dining philosophy built on tradition, ritual, and time. This raises a compelling question: can such an antiquated establishment find relevance in today's London?
A Temple of British Dining with a Rich Legacy
Few British restaurants carry such historical heft. Simpson's originated not as a restaurant but as the Grand Cigar Divan, a coffee and cigar club that became the epicentre of British chess. Players would sit for hours in quiet concentration while waiters discreetly served coffee and cigars.
When caterer John Simpson joined in 1848, dining was introduced, along with the restaurant's most iconic innovation: the silver carving trolley. Designed to serve roast meats tableside without disturbing chess matches, it remains in use today. The room soon became synonymous with hearty British fare and old-world service. In the 1860s, to emphasise its British identity, Simpson's even rejected the French word "menu" in favour of the more patriotic "bill of fare".
Over the decades, Simpson's attracted an illustrious clientele, including Charles Dickens, Arthur Conan Doyle, and PG Wodehouse. Winston Churchill reportedly favoured the Grand Divan dining room, where he celebrated VE Day. Wodehouse once described Simpson's as "a restful temple of food", where diners were "at liberty to eat till you were helpless, if you felt so disposed".
From Relic to Revival: King's Long-Held Obsession
Despite its legacy, Simpson's had begun to feel like a museum piece long before its Covid-induced closure. By the late 2010s, critics viewed it as a grand Edwardian dining room preserved in aspic, with some diners visiting out of nostalgia rather than genuine culinary enthusiasm. When it closed in 2020, many wondered if it would remain a historical footnote rather than a living institution.
However, it caught the eye of Jeremy King, a restaurateur with decades of experience perfecting grand London dining rooms. Alongside his former partner Chris Corbin, King helped shape iconic establishments like Le Caprice, The Ivy, J Sheekey, The Wolseley, and Brasserie Zédel. Their partnership ended abruptly in 2022 after a dispute with Minor International, which had taken control of their company, Corbin & King, leading to King's removal.
Retirement was not in the cards. King has since returned with Arlington and The Park, but Simpson's represents his most ambitious project yet—a long-held obsession. He first approached Simpson's in 2000, again in 2008 and 2015, finally securing the deal in 2022 after the restaurant had sat dormant for two years.
The Challenge of Restoring a Grand Institution
Reviving Simpson's has been a monumental task. The building spans over 20,000 square feet, encompassing the historic Grand Divan dining room, a second restaurant called Romano's, two bars, and a ballroom. Progress has faced delays; the reopening was initially planned for Christmas 2024, and Romano's remains unfinished, with protective sheeting still covering the floor and furniture yet to arrive.
King's meticulous attention to detail is evident. Interior designer Shayne Brady, a long-time collaborator, was overheard discussing cushion approvals in the bar, highlighting King's focus on lighting, upholstery, and table placement. The "bill of fare" leans unapologetically into tradition, featuring prawn cocktail with buttered brown bread, mulligatawny soup, Woolton pie, Dover sole, salmon fishcake, and the signature rib of beef carved tableside.
This tableside theatre, once the preserve of grand hotels, is making a quiet comeback. At Soho's The Devonshire, Sunday roasts are carved from trolleys, and crêpes Suzette are flambéed in the private dining room. Simpson's sits at the grand end of this shift, tapping into a renewed appetite for experiential dining where dishes are prepared before diners' eyes.
A Broader Revival on the Strand
Simpson's return coincides with a resurgence on the Strand itself. Once a disappointing mix of theatreland chains and souvenir shops, this historic boulevard is awakening. Nearby, 180 Strand has become a cultural hub for fashion shows and exhibitions. Against this backdrop, Simpson's revival feels more than nostalgic—it suggests the Strand may be rediscovering its purpose.
Old Rituals in a Modern Dining Scene
Yet, Simpson's reopens amid a trend favouring intimacy over grandeur, with smaller dining rooms and seasonal menus. In contrast, Simpson's offers a deliberate throwback: a slower pace and grander setting. King emphasises, "When we reopen Simpson's, we're not trying to make it louder or trendier or faster. My job isn't to reinvent this place, it's to protect it. To ensure that when someone sits here today, or in 50 years, they feel the same thing—calm, confidence, and continuity."
He adds, "Simpson's has never chased the world. It simply waits. And eventually, the world finds its way back." In a city obsessed with the next big thing, Simpson's offers something rare: the chance to embrace ritual and stillness. If London retains patience for such experiences, Simpson's may prove more relevant than ever.
The Grand Divan restaurant, Simpson's Bar, and Nellie's Tavern are now open, with the rest of the building set to follow later this spring.
