In the heart of London's bustling financial district, a new Italian contender has thrown its hat into the ring. Campanelle, nestled amongst the glass and steel of EC3, promises a taste of sun-drenched Italy. But does it deliver, or is it merely a refuge for weary bankers? The Guardian's formidable restaurant critic, Grace Dent, paid a visit to find out.
A Setting of Corporate Chic
Dent sets the scene, describing a venue that leans heavily into its City surroundings. Think polished floors, smartly dressed waiting staff, and a clientele that seems to have arrived straight from the trading floor. It’s a world of expense accounts and power lunches, a vibe that is immediately established upon entry.
The Culinary Highs and Lows
The review takes us on a journey through the menu, where Dent finds moments of brilliance overshadowed by puzzling missteps. A dish of nduja arancini receives praise for its fiery, spicy kick and perfect texture. However, this early promise is quickly dampened by a wildly overpriced and underwhelming burrata, a dish Dent suggests should be a simple crowd-pleaser.
The pasta, the restaurant's namesake, becomes the central battleground. While some dishes showcase skill, others fall frustratingly flat. Dent notes a certain timidity in the cooking, a lack of the bold, confident flavours one expects from genuine Italian cuisine.
The Final Verdict
Grace Dent’s conclusion is measured yet unmistakably clear. Campanelle is not a bad restaurant, but it is a profoundly frustrating one. It possesses the ingredients for success—a prime location, a beautiful space, and flashes of culinary talent. Yet, it seemingly prioritises its corporate audience over the soul of Italian cooking.
For those trapped in the Square Mile with a company card, it might suffice. But for Londoners seeking an authentic, passionate Italian experience, Dent implies your money and your palate would be better served elsewhere. Campanelle, in her view, plays it safe, resulting in a competent but ultimately forgettable meal.
