Samantha Herbert embarked on a transformative six-week solo hike across Japan's Shikoku island, tackling the ancient 1,200-kilometre Shikoku Henro pilgrimage. Battling extreme heat, isolation, and physical exhaustion, she visited 88 temples in pursuit of healing and purpose, discovering profound kindness from locals and inner resilience along the way.
The Daunting Beginning: Heat and Doubt
Staggering under a scorching 45-degree Celsius sun with an 18-kilogram backpack, Samantha questioned her decision to undertake one of the world's most challenging hikes. Less than a day into the six-week journey, she felt overwhelmed by the humidity, exhaustion, and loneliness, having arrived in Shikoku heartbroken and burnt out. Her minimal Japanese language skills added to the anxiety, making the initial steps seem impossible.
Unexpected Kindness: The Osettai Tradition
A turning point came when an elderly local, concerned for her safety in record-breaking heat, rushed to gift her a towel, bucket hat, and later a bag filled with iced coffee and rehydration drinks. This act introduced Samantha to osettai, a centuries-old practice where locals support pilgrims with gifts. Throughout the trek, such gestures lifted her spirits during the toughest moments, highlighting the cultural warmth embedded in the pilgrimage.
Spiritual Stages of the Shikoku Henro
The pilgrimage is structured into four spiritual stages corresponding to Shikoku's prefectures: Awakening, Ascetic Training, Enlightenment, and Nirvana. While an estimated 300,000 people attempt it annually, only one to two per cent walk the entire route as Samantha did, following in the footsteps of ninth-century Buddhist monk Kobo Daishi.
Tokushima: The Awakening Phase
The first section, covering temples 1 to 23, thrust Samantha into challenging environments with no easing in. Traversing farmland, dense woodland, and tropical forests, she faced the first of seven henro koragashi—particularly difficult temple climbs. On day three, she ascended steep mountains amid humidity and rain, focusing solely on reaching the summit. Arriving drenched at Temple 12, she felt grounded and proud, her mind eased by the physical conquest.
Kochi: Ascetic Training and Resilience
Entering Kochi prefecture, the landscape shifted to rugged coastlines and palm-lined beaches. This Ascetic Training phase emphasised austerity and discipline, with distances between temples stretching up to 85 kilometres. Monotonous road-walking in over 40-degree heat tested her limits, but a serendipitous mountain detour led to a breathtaking view—and a near-disastrous fall. After slipping on moss-covered rocks and tumbling down a ledge, saved by a snapped hiking pole, she brushed off scrapes and bruises, later finding joy in cycling to Temple 36 on a borrowed bike.
Ehime: Enlightenment Amid Challenges
In Ehime, the pilgrimage transitioned to contemplation, though gritty mountain passes and landslides persisted. A repeated source of solace came from small notes left by previous pilgrims, acting as silent reassurances. On day 28, when her trail disappeared, an aged laminated tag hanging from a branch guided her way, symbolising the shared endurance of henros across generations.
Kagawa: Nirvana and Final Triumph
With just a week left, Samantha entered Kagawa feeling calmer and more content. Despite an accommodation mishap, she maintained newfound calmness. The final challenge was an optional, terrifying climb to Temple 88, involving vertical rockfaces and ladders. Hauling herself up with white knuckles, she collected her last calligraphy as darkness fell, completing the journey in solitude without fanfare. Reflecting later, she realised the skills gained throughout the trek made this final ascent possible.
A Journey of Self-Rediscovery
Six weeks and 1,200 kilometres later, Samantha emerged transformed. While not achieving enlightenment like Kobo Daishi, she reclaimed a sense of self through Shikoku's natural beauty and human kindness. The pilgrimage, though gruelling, offered healing and resilience, proving that even in isolation, connection and purpose can be found.
