In a city packed with bakeries, how do you find the best? I risked tooth decay to track down the quintessential blend of crisp pastry, an oozy centre and sugary cinnamon.
Open sandwiches (smørrebrød), meatballs (frikadeller), crispy pork belly (stegt flæsk) … There are many must-eat dishes for food lovers visiting Denmark, though perhaps nothing springs to mind as readily as the Danish pastry. But how are you supposed to choose from the countless bakeries on offer? And once you have decided which to visit, which pastry to eat? As a long-term resident of Copenhagen and pastry obsessive, I took on the Guardian’s challenge to find the best Danish pastry in town.
Let’s get started with the shocking fact that Danish pastries are not actually Danish. In Denmark they’re called wienerbrød (Viennese bread) and made using a laminated dough technique that originated in Vienna. There’s also no such thing as a “Danish” in Denmark – there are so many different types of pastry that the word loses meaning. What we know as a Danish is a spandauer – a round pastry with a folded border and a circle of yellowy custard in the middle. Then there’s the tebirkes, a folded pastry often with a baked marzipan-style centre and poppy seeds on the top; a frøsnapper, a twist of pastry dusted with poppy seeds; and a snegl, which translates as “snail” but is known as a cinnamon swirl in English.
I decided to compare bakeries based on their snegl – partly because they are my favourite but mainly because you can find one just about everywhere. I’m also clear on what constitutes a good one: it should have a crisp outer circle and a squidgier middle, which Danes regard as the best bit, and should taste of cinnamon and sugar.
With a steady stream of often international pastry chefs leaving the city’s high-end restaurants to open their own bakeries, new outlets are popping up nearly every day. There’s a low-key fight going on between old and new, but in this Instagram age it’s not a fair one. While the more traditional bakeries are marked out by the golden kringle, a sign like a pretzel, hanging outside their shops, the boutique-style bakeries have nearly always got better lighting and more vibrant displays.
For me, it’s a classic story of modernisation and renewal: some adaptations may go too far, but others make traditional pastry taste even better, so why not? I explored both types: the traditional bakeries imbued with hygge and historic charm, and the chic, patisserie-style places. Try them both – it’s fun!
