One of Portland's most cherished culinary institutions, Dan & Louis Oyster Bar, stands on the precipice of permanent closure after 118 years of continuous operation, becoming the latest casualty of the city's struggling post-pandemic recovery.
A Century-Old Legacy Under Threat
First established in 1907, the family-run restaurant has occupied the same downtown corner through world wars, economic depressions and countless civic changes. Yet the current challenges facing Portland have pushed this historic establishment to breaking point.
Co-owner Michelle Wachsmuth, who married into the family business, revealed the desperate situation to The Oregonian. "We are literally living paycheck to paycheck," she confessed. "It depends on how many people are coming in, really, whether I can pay my bills right now."
The Perfect Storm: Pandemic and Policy
The restaurant's troubles began with the 2020 COVID-19 outbreak, which forced temporary closure and disrupted normal operations. However, conditions dramatically worsened following Portland's controversial experiment with drug decriminalisation.
The policy transformation saw downtown areas become open-air drug markets, leading to widespread protests and driving away the customer base that had sustained businesses like Dan & Louis for generations. By 2023, Oregon recorded more than 20,000 homeless people, with nearly two-thirds remaining unsheltered as overdose deaths surged alarmingly.
Although the city rolled back the controversial drug policy in 2024, Michelle and her husband Meinert 'Keoni' Wachsmuth maintain that the damage appears irreversible.
Fighting for Survival
The financial strain has become so severe that the couple now closes the restaurant two to three days each week to manage costs. With the busy summer season ended and a nearby market scheduled to close between January and February, the future looks increasingly bleak.
"It might be easier to just walk away from everything, but I feel this responsibility to Portland - to this historic Portland," Michelle explained, her voice echoing the dilemma facing many long-established businesses in the area.
The couple continues to struggle attracting sufficient lunch and dinner customers, often watching helplessly as tables remain empty during peak dining hours. They acknowledge they must achieve specific daily revenue targets simply to meet payroll obligations.
Despite their own financial precariousness, the Wachsmuths maintain their tradition of offering a complimentary bowl of clam chowder to anyone in need - a practice they initiated during the 43-day government shutdown when SNAP benefits faced uncertainty.
A Plea to Portlanders
Michelle has issued an emotional appeal to the community that once sustained their business. "If you love us, you've got to get back down here," she begged. "All of the old favourites will be gone if people don't start coming downtown again."
The statistics paint a grim picture of downtown Portland's current state. Office vacancy rates remain critically high at 35 percent - the worst among America's top 25 largest downtown districts. While tourism shows tentative signs of recovery, homeless encampments and open drug use continue to deter visitors and locals alike.
As one Portland student candidly told Daily Mail in 2022, many residents now "walk with blinders" to avoid confronting the city's deterioration, adding "otherwise you wouldn't come here at all."
The Wachsmuths remain determined to preserve their family's legacy, but acknowledge the decision may ultimately be taken out of their hands. "We really want to keep this going as much as we can for as long as we can," Michelle stated, capturing the fragile hope of Portland's remaining downtown business owners.
