During the pandemic, the author abandoned saving sparkling wine for special occasions, instead opening bottles regularly to lift spirits amid grim news. This habit persisted, reflecting a broader trend: according to the International Organisation of Vine and Wine, sparkling wine sales have grown faster than any other style, rising in value from €2.3bn to €8.5bn over the past 25 years, though 2020 figures showed a dip.
Why Crémant Stands Out
Sparkling wine has become less a celebration-only drink and more an everyday pleasure. However, champagne and English sparkling wine remain expensive. Prosecco is often too sweet, and pét-nat not always suitable. Crémant offers a brilliant, affordable alternative. Made using the same traditional method as champagne—with a second fermentation in the bottle and ageing on lees for complexity—crémant uniquely expresses the terroir of its region, not merely imitating champagne.
Regional Variations of Crémant
Crémants from different French regions showcase distinct characteristics. Crémant de Loire, with limestone soil and chenin blanc blended with chardonnay, cabernet franc, or pinot noir, offers zing and elegance. Bordeaux crémants, benefiting from warmer days and fuller grapes, deliver generous, brioche notes. Limoux in Languedoc produces a famously ripe style, while Crémant d'Alsace, often using pinot blanc blended with chardonnay, yields refreshing, aromatic fizz suitable for aperitifs and spicy dishes.
Five Recommended Crémants
- Crémant de Bordeaux (£10, Tesco, 12% ABV): A blend of semillon and merlot, expressive and refreshing, offering serious value.
- The Society's Celebration Crémant de Loire 2023 (£13.75, 12% ABV): Fresh and mineral, from Saumur, with a high percentage of chardonnay for elegance and body.
- Cave de Ribeauvillé Les Comtes de Ribeauvillé Crémant d'Alsace Brut (£18, Majestic, 12% ABV): Smooth, orchardy, and subtly floral, ideal with curries and spicy foods.
- St John Crémant de Limoux 2023 (£24, 12% ABV): A moreish blend of chardonnay, chenin, and local mauzac, produced by Antech.
- Domaine la Croix Montjoie Crémant de Bourgogne Brut (£24.50, Berry Bros & Rudd, 13% ABV): A complex dance of four Burgundian grapes, preferable to cheap champagne.
As the age of austerity continues, crémant proves that it's always time for sparkling wine, provided the price is right.
