Smeg's £499 Retro Coffee Machine Review: Style Over Substance?
Smeg's £499 Coffee Machine: Is It Worth The Price?

When you think of Smeg, visions of its iconic, colourful retro fridges and high-end ovens likely spring to mind. Yet, the Italian design powerhouse has also carved out a niche in the world of coffee makers, albeit with a more compact footprint. Its latest offering, the Espresso and Cold Brew Coffee Machine, blends the brand's unmistakable 1950s aesthetic with the promise of barista-style drinks at home. But with a price tag hovering around £499, does it brew a cup that justifies the cost, or is this an exercise in style over substance? Our reviews expert put it through its paces.

Design, Build, and Key Features

Smeg has doubled down on its signature retro look with this machine. Available in black, cream, pastel blue, and white, it's a statement piece designed to brighten up a kitchen counter or home office. The build quality feels robust, though it's worth noting a significant portion of the casing is plastic rather than stainless steel. However, critical components like the portafilter and steam wand handle have a solid, quality feel.

In terms of features, it operates as a straightforward 15-bar pressure manual espresso machine. It includes buttons for single or double espresso shots, a longer coffee option, and steam wand activation. The standout addition is the dedicated cold brew function, allowing you to brew a single (100ml) or double (160ml) dose of cold coffee in minutes—a feature rarely found on manual machines.

The machine is compact (36.4x20.5x29.5cm), with a 1.1-litre water tank at the back and a removable drip tray at the front. It comes with a portafilter and a tamp, but you'll need to invest in a separate coffee grinder if you plan to use whole beans.

Performance and Coffee Quality

So, how does it actually perform? In testing, the machine produced perfectly acceptable espresso. It required a brief warming-up period and a few attempts to dial in the grind, but the results were good, with a decent crema. The integrated pressure gauge on the front helps monitor extraction.

The steam wand, labelled a 'cappuccino system' by Smeg, produced adequately frothy milk for lattes and cappuccinos. While it won't match the microfoam capability of a more professional wand like those found on Sage machines, it gets the job done for most home users. One minor gripe was that the default temperature for hot drinks felt a touch low, though this can be adjusted in the settings menu.

The cold brew function is a genuine convenience, delivering a smooth, chilled coffee quickly without the usual 12-24 hour wait. This is where the Smeg differentiates itself from many rivals in the manual market.

Value for Money and The Competition

Here lies the crux of the matter: value for money. At £499, this Smeg machine sits in a price bracket closer to some bean-to-cup automatics. A significant portion of that cost is undeniably tied to the Smeg name and its distinctive design language.

For pure coffee performance and features per pound, there are stronger contenders. The Sage Bambino, for instance, is considerably cheaper and boasts a superior steam wand and digital temperature control (PID). The De'Longhi Dedica offers very similar core espresso functionality for around £200. Crucially, neither of these alternatives include a cold brew setting.

Online reviews for this relatively new Smeg model are mixed, with many customers questioning the high price while praising the design and acceptable coffee quality.

Our Expert Verdict

Smeg's Espresso and Cold Brew Coffee Machine is a competent performer wrapped in an undeniably gorgeous shell. The build is good, it's relatively simple to use, and the cold brew feature is a welcome bonus. However, it's hard to escape the conclusion that you are paying a premium for aesthetics and branding.

If having the iconic Smeg design in your kitchen is a priority, and you value the cold brew option, this machine will serve you well. But if your primary concern is getting the best possible espresso for your budget, more feature-rich and consistent machines like the Sage Bambino offer better pure value. Ultimately, this Smeg isn't a bad machine—you can just get better coffee performance for less money, albeit without the retro flair.

How We Test: Our testing focuses on ease of use, coffee quality (espresso and milk-based drinks), steam wand performance, build quality, and overall value. We compare results directly against similar models on the market to provide a balanced assessment.