Brooklyn's $40 Half Chicken Ignites Fierce Debate Over NYC Dining Costs
A newly opened French restaurant and wine bar in Brooklyn has become the unlikely epicentre of a heated debate about dining affordability in New York City, after it began selling a half rotisserie chicken for forty dollars. Gigi's, which had its grand opening last week, charges a substantial seventy-seven dollars for a whole bird, prompting both criticism and defence from customers and industry observers alike.
Political Criticism Meets Public Backlash
New York City Councilman Chi Ossé, a left-wing politician frequently focused on affordability issues, publicly called out Gigi's pricing on social media last Thursday. "$40 half chicken at a wine bar? Really?" he wrote on Instagram, triggering hundreds of comments. However, the vast majority of respondents admonished Ossé for singling out one establishment, arguing that dining out across the city is universally expensive.
One commenter remarked, "This is really disappointing, tacky, and self-promoting. Calling out one brand new restaurant in a whole city of overpriced food is so petty. Do you people live in New York?" Others pointed to broader economic factors, including soaring commercial rents and increased ingredient costs since the COVID-19 pandemic, as justifications for premium pricing.
The Restaurant Owner's Defence and Comparative Pricing
Hugo Hivernat, the owner of Gigi's, defended his pricing in response. He explained that the chicken undergoes a labour-intensive preparation process, involving three different cooks for butchering, skewering, and torch-cooking. It is served with roasted potatoes and three sauces on a platter he sourced from a French flea market, elevating the presentation far above supermarket rotisserie chickens.
Hivernat also highlighted significant regulatory hurdles, stating he waited two-and-a-half years to open while paying rent, due to city permits, Department of Buildings approvals, and Con Edison inspections. "If I didn’t have to wait two and a half years to open, maybe I could sell a chicken for $38," he told The New York Times, suggesting council members could address such bureaucratic delays.
Comparatively, at Costco, a three-pound rotisserie chicken has remained at $4.99 since 2009, a price possible because it serves as a loss leader to attract customers. Meanwhile, local competitors offer varying prices: Badaboom in Bedford-Stuyvesant charges thirty-two dollars for a half chicken with potatoes, while The Fly in Bed-Stuy offers a half chicken for nineteen dollars, though adding potatoes and sauces brings the total to thirty-eight dollars. Felipe Cha of Inca Chicken in Bushwick, pricing his half bird at $14.50 with two sides for a "hard-working clientele," defended Gigi's, noting they use higher-quality chickens and face substantial operational costs.
Broader Implications for New York's Dining Scene
This controversy underscores the complex economics of running a restaurant in one of America's most expensive cities. Restaurateurs argue that many diners fail to grasp the full costs involved, from ingredients and labour to rent and regulatory compliance. The debate has expanded beyond a single menu item to question the sustainability and accessibility of New York's culinary landscape, balancing quality and experience against rising expenses for both businesses and consumers.
