A leading Harley Street dermatologist has warned that there is currently no strong evidence to support the use of oral collagen supplements for skin health. Dr Anjali Mahto made the comments during a recent episode of Which?'s Healthy Living Podcast, where she was joined by Shefalee Loth, a nutritionist at Which? who leads research for the health and wellbeing team.
No Evidence Supplements Reverse Ageing
Dr Mahto, described by Which? as a highly respected and renowned medical and cosmetic consultant dermatologist based on Harley Street and author of the best-selling book The Skincare Bible, said: "Now, what I'm going to say is currently where the data stands, there is no good evidence that taking an oral collagen supplement for your skin is going to reverse the ageing process or slow down the ageing process or thicken up the collagen in the skin."
Collagen is the most abundant protein in the human body, making up about 25% to 30% of all protein. It acts as a biological "glue" or scaffolding, providing structure, strength, and support to skin, bones, tendons, ligaments, cartilage, and blood vessels.
Popularity and Market Growth
Collagen supplements have grown into a thriving global and UK market, fuelled largely by social media, wellness culture and anti-ageing trends. According to the most recent data, around 42% of UK adults take at least one dietary supplement regularly, while YouGov research reveals that 10% (approximately 5.3 million people) have tried collagen supplements.
Experts suggest the rise in popularity largely comes down to a combination of persuasive lifestyle marketing and the "beauty-from-within" movement. Consumers are also frequently reminded that the body's natural collagen production begins to decline from our twenties onwards.
Scientific Evidence Remains Inconclusive
While clinical reviews suggest that eight to 12 weeks of daily hydrolysed collagen peptides may help support skin elasticity, hydration and joint mobility, evidence supporting the reduction of deep wrinkles, hair thickening or nail growth remains limited.
Dr Mahto advises that a nutritious, protein-rich diet represents a far more effective approach. She notes that the majority of existing studies on the subject are funded by the industry itself, and argues that the body does not instinctively direct consumed collagen towards the skin, given that there are more than 30 distinct types of collagen distributed throughout the body.
She also raises the point that individuals purchasing costly supplements are frequently already maintaining a healthy lifestyle, including nutritious eating habits and using quality skincare products, which makes it challenging to determine the supplements' specific impact. Experts also indicate that if someone has a protein deficiency, collagen supplements may function as a fundamental protein source, which could represent the sole genuine advantage.
Skincare Advice and Additional Points
The two experts also highlight several other crucial points. They thoroughly recommend a robust routine of cleansing, sunscreen (in the morning), and vitamin A (at night). Costly products do not guarantee superior outcomes, they maintain.
They emphasise that daily SPF (factor 30-50) is the most crucial anti-ageing product for safeguarding the skin barrier and preventing collagen damage. Retinoids (vitamin A) are beneficial for skin cell turnover but must be introduced gradually (once or twice weekly) to prevent irritation. Regulations have restricted over-the-counter concentrations in the UK to 0.3%.
They also highlight that hormonal changes during menopause, such as declining oestrogen levels, can lead to dryness, sensitivity, and even adult acne. Skincare routines often require modification to incorporate more hydrating ingredients such as hyaluronic acid and ceramides. Regarding LED masks, while some modest improvements for wrinkle reduction have been noted in trials, the long-term clinical evidence remains limited, they said.
