Eight beaches in Wales have been named among the 50 best in the UK by the Sunday Times. Travel writer Chris Haslam visited 607 beaches in five weeks to determine the best beaches. He named Broad Haven South, Pembrokeshire, as Wales' top beach, along with Newborough Beach, Anglesey, Llangrannog Beach, Ceredigion and Marloes Sands, Pembrokeshire. One of the beaches on the highly coveted list is an unassuming beach with a surprising feature just a short stroll over the headland - Abereiddy in Pembrokeshire.
Its distinctive dark, fossil-rich sands and craggy cliffs don't exactly scream 'Caribbean dupe', so why has this “grey as a Monday morning” beach been featured in the Times’ best beach list? Writer Chris said: "The answer lies a short walk away over the Trwyncastell headland, where you’ll find Pembrokeshire’s Blue Lagoon. A former slate quarry, smooth-sided and 80ft deep, it was adopted by local fishermen who in 1926 blew a breach in the seaward wall to create a harbour." Now known as the Blue Lagoon, the leftover slate from its mining heritage gives the water its stunning aqua-blue hue that photographers love.
The Blue Lagoon: From Quarry to Tourist Attraction
Today, it's owned by the National Trust and is famous as a top location for wild swimming and coasteering. It previously hosted the Red Bull Cliff Diving World Series. You'll still see hints of the area's industrial past here. The National Trust notes that slate extracted from Aberystwyth was transported by tramway to the neighbouring Porthgain Harbour and shipped out. Ruined quarry buildings still sit on the clifftop, with the remains of the workmen’s cottages adjacent to the car park along what was called The Row or The Street. You’ll also spot the foreman’s house and the powder store here.
This azure-blue lagoon is often a popular spot for seals and their pups in autumn. Each September, National Trust Cymru temporarily closes it off to help protect the newborns. The Blue Lagoon and nearby beaches offer the perfect spot for seals to haul out, rest after a good feed, socialise, and care for their young.
Wild Swimming and Safety Advice
If you're a cold-water swimmer like me, you can swim year-round in this beautiful spot, but I would recommend wearing a full wetsuit in the colder months and bringing a tow float and a buddy to swim with. For less-experienced dippers, I would hold off till summer, as the water temperature can drop drastically in winter. Wild swimming comes with risks, and as another heatwave descends upon Wales and attracts more swimmers, it's essential to be prepared. Follow RNLI advice and bring a tow float to stay visible, acclimatise slowly to avoid cold-water shock, and always plan your exit point before entering the water.
If you don't fancy a dip in the lagoon, you can always unwind on the beach or hop on the Wales Coast Path and walk to nearby Porthgain. There is a 6.3-km out-and-back trail you can follow on apps like AllTrails, or you can simply stick to the path; it's an easy enough walk.
Walk to Porthgain: A Coastal Treasure
Start at Abereiddi beach, which has a paid-for car park and toilet facilities. From the pebble-strewn car park, you'll follow the waymarked trail over the cliffs, where you'll be able to look down over the Blue Lagoon. Once you have passed the lagoon, keep following the cliff path that traces the craggy shoreline. The easy coast path continues over open grassland, skirting along the cliffs with gorgeous ocean views. You'll soon be high above Traeth Llyfn. Secluded and remote, the shore is completely covered at the highest tides. Strong rip currents can also occur, so swimming is not recommended here.
Keep stomping along, watching for seabirds and seals bobbing in the distant waves, and you'll soon approach Porthgain. This tiny fishing port, described by The Guardian as "a prime spot for escaping the ills of the universe," once exported roadstone all over the UK and is now home to a pub, a bistro, and an art gallery. Descend the concrete steps, and you'll reach the curved harbour wall, where you'll spot remnants of the port's former industrial workings. Look closely, and you'll spy the abandoned ruins of stone-crushing works, lobster pots and loft cottages once used by the fishermen.
Porthgain: Food and Drink Stops
Initially a small fishing and limekiln site, it became a significant industrial hub in the mid-19th century with the development of quarrying and brickworks. Today, it's a bougie stop along the Wales Coast Path with a bistro serving some of the best fish and chips in Wales. The Shed has won acclaim from Sunday Times writer Giles Coren, who called their fish and chip offering "as good as cod or haddock and chips can be." He added that it's "light, fresh and crispy but not with one of those deep bronze, inedibly crunchy, stupidly show-offy batters you find in your urban gastropub." Chef Stephen Terry has also praised the "really good fish and chips" here. Bag a table and look out over the harbour while you tuck into some fresh seafood, such as monkfish and prawn curry or halibut with samphire and shallot, served with lemon and caper butter.
Fancy a halfway pint? Swing by the historic Sloop Inn, a proper character-filled pub whose decor is as eclectic as the crowd. We're talking old road signs, vintage fishing gear, beer barrels, and walls packed with vintage snapshots of Porthgain through the ages. The main bar is located in the original 18th-century building, which was lovingly restored in the 1990s but still exudes maritime charm. Settle in with a local ale, a crisp cider, or even a steamy hot chocolate if you're feeling cosy. There's a wide drinks selection and seasonal menus, and if you're lucky, you might catch some live music or even spot fresh lobster on the specials board.
Once you've refuelled, it's time to head back the same way you came along the coast path towards Abereiddi. If you've worked up a sweat and brought your swim gear, now is the perfect time for a bracing cold water dip in the blue lagoon. Just watch out for the tombstoning teenagers.
