A perfect storm is now raging against our pubs, and it is time for a reality check. Labour's economic measures are bad enough, but there is another blight on pubs we need to talk about.
The Sobering Reality of Pub Closures
How many more pubs will have pulled their last pint by the end of today? As many as two if industry trends continue – a sobering thought. That perfect storm of soaring business rates and national insurance hikes is now raging; a reality laid bare by the likes of chef and pub owner Tom Kerridge calling on the government to reduce hospitality VAT from 20 to 10%. And it plays out around us, that slow fade of once vibrant establishments with their reduced opening hours and roadside signs advertising for bar staff.
The 'use it or lose it' mantra has never been more apt, but the situation also raises broader questions. Spiralling costs dominate the narrative, but a further threat prevails – I am thinking of the rise in that chi-chi reinvention of village pubs catering to a premium crowd, pricing out locals and alienating the traditional pub-goer.
What Makes a Traditional Pub?
Everyone has an idea of what a traditional village pub is or should be – landlords, lock-ins, and low beams all within stumbling distance for those locals who prop up the bar. And while the bygone age of beer mats, fruit machines, and dart boards may be lost forever in a fug of cigarette smoke, the traditional charms of these still uniquely British institutions can still thrive.
Where I live in rural West Sussex, it is not hard to find a 16th century inn offering home-from-home comfort and good food. The Black Horse in the hamlet of Byworth is a case in point – with its roaring fire and homemade pies – the kind of vibe eulogised by George Orwell in his 1946 essay, 'The Moon Under Water', in which he outlines his blueprint for the perfect pub.
Elsewhere, there is the Squire and Horse in the village of Bury to remind us that a pub main meal can arrive complete without needing extra costly side orders. And where you can tip on your own terms without an automatic service charge that all too often rewards mechanical indifference. In an industry that has always lived and died by the very smallest margins, these and many more are proof that value can be delivered without compromising quality or quantity even in the most straightened times.
The Rise of Premium Pubs
But it would be fallacy to suggest it is the norm. We all know the other side of the coin. Those that trade on their prime location where period features sit alongside a Soho farmhouse-inspired refurb. They may look the part, but are they not in fact cosplaying at what a village pub should be?
In reality, their elite price point is often more divisive than the unifying community hub they purport to be. I am thinking of the venues where a general manager pounces as soon as you arrive to check if you have booked a table in the restaurant. Where you find Michelin-style portions and prices but without the flavour, where people (almost apologetically) ask if they can 'just get a drink' and will be slapped with a service charge even when ordering and collecting from the bar themselves.
Where the old 'fish and field' menu cliches are a sorry excuse to charge £42 for a rib eye steak or £34 for a lemon sole (without sides). And then there is my local.
The Case of The Swan Inn
The Swan Inn in the village of Fittleworth. Last year, anticipation had reached fever pitch among residents over the pub's reopening after a two-year hiatus. Yet for all the buzz, the pub is mainly frequented by deep-pocketed visitors with their fleet of flash cars, with many priced-out locals relegated to the cheap and cheerful social club for their pint of shandy.
Does it all really matter? Well yes and no. Of course, it is a business's prerogative to tap into a market that will lap up 'crafted' pizzas and a triple-figure lunch. And it is providing a wage and work experience for the churn of students on serving duties, but let us not pretend these places are truly inclusive or accessible. For those who have long relied on their local for social interaction, especially in rural communities and a more disconnected world, they will be in for a rude awakening sat among a crowd of strangers passing through.
A Call for Government Support and Reality Check
Undoubtedly, the sector as a whole needs more government support in these challenging times, but it could be argued that some sections would benefit from a reality check too.
