On a routine journey through London's Underground, photographer Owen Harvey experienced his first encounter with one of the city's most distinctive traditions. "I was sat on a fairly empty midday Northern Line train when an elderly gentleman appeared, head to toe in shimmering buttons," Harvey recalls. This striking sight sparked a fascination that would lead him to document the Pearly Kings and Queens during their milestone 150th anniversary year.
The Humble Origins of a London Institution
The remarkable story of the Pearly Kings and Queens begins with Henry Croft, a Victorian orphan raised in Somers Town who worked as a road sweeper and rat catcher. Immersed in the world of market traders known for their community pride and distinctive cockney slang, Henry became inspired by their fashion - particularly the mother-of-pearl buttons that adorned their clothing.
Driven by their spirit of mutual aid, Henry created an entire suit elaborately decorated with pearl buttons, designed to draw attention while he raised money for the orphanage where he grew up. His creation became an instant icon, and soon hospitals and charities across London were calling upon him to help collect funds.
By 1875, Henry had enlisted the help of market traders to meet growing demand, formally establishing the Pearly Kings and Queens as a network of 28 families - one for each London borough at the time. This structure ensured the tradition of raising money for charity could be passed down through generations.
Preserving Tradition in Modern London
Becoming a Pearly isn't simply a matter of choice. The privilege of a title must be passed down or earned through family connections. Children are typically raised as pearly princes or princesses, eventually inheriting their parents' titles. Other relatives like cousins may also receive titles, while occasionally outsiders with strong family connections can be invited to join as a "pearly pride."
Once initiated, members make a lifelong commitment to charity work. This includes traditional street fundraising and larger events like their annual harvest festival at St-Martin-in-the-Fields church near Trafalgar Square. Despite their deep-rooted history, the Pearlies have embraced modernity with a social media presence and a new generation of younger members bringing fresh energy to the tradition.
Photographer Owen Harvey, who has spent a decade exploring themes of belonging and identity through his work, found particular resonance with the Pearlies. "Within all these groups, I've found there is a sense of pride, a respect for their history and a need to be part of something bigger than themselves," he notes.
Generations United in Charity
The Pearly community spans remarkable age ranges, from 98-year-old Phyllis Broadbent, the Pearly Queen of Islington, to two-year-old princesses Olive and Phoebe of Haggerston and Wembley - a 96-year generation gap representing both the tradition's history and its future.
Ashleigh-Rose Harman, the Pearly Queen of Royal Kensington, emphasizes the importance of this multigenerational aspect. "Like any family, it only works with a blend of experience, knowledge and energy," she explains. "Every member of the association brings something vital that keeps it going."
Reflecting on her personal connection to the tradition, Ashleigh-Rose adds: "It's about having a connection to my history - my family have been part of the pearly tradition for over 100 years. There's something special about putting on buttons and knowing that I'm continuing work that members of my family dedicated themselves to."
She also highlights the ongoing relevance of their working-class origins: "It was born out of community and the responsibility of looking after those around you who need help. When I look at how many communities are struggling at the moment, I think that ethos is more relevant than ever."
As Harvey completed his documentation of this unique London tradition, he was left with a powerful impression of the Pearlies as "essentially one big family, with a sense of pride in their community, history and an aspiration to help others in need" - a description that perfectly captures the enduring spirit that has sustained this remarkable institution for 150 years and continues to drive it forward into the future.
