Released in 2001, the comedy Zoolander was prophetic about fashion's present. Critics were divided, the US release date came a few days after 9/11, and the sequel flopped. Yet few films have predicted fashion's own present like this memeable absurdist comedy about the "three-times male model of the year." It correctly predicted themes, styles and sensibilities that still ring true today.
Blue Steel and the Duck Face
The joke around Derek Zoolander's trademark look, Blue Steel, was how ridiculous it was. Still, the shocked but vacant stare with the exaggerated pout later became the facial pose on social media. Officially defined as "duck face" (after the Japanese term "ahiru-guchi", duck mouth), the look gained traction on Instagram in the early 2010s. Tweakments such as lip-filler and forehead botox mean that faces have begun artificially morphing into the pose, so everyone can be really, really, really Zoolander without trying.
Trump's Cameo and the Onesie
Donald Trump made fleeting cameos in films such as Two Weeks Notice, Little Rascals and Home Alone 2. His one line in Zoolander: "Without Derek Zoolander, male modelling wouldn't be what it is today." A fabulous little fib that he imparts very believably.
In the film, Derek's nightwear of choice is a onesie covered in penguins. A decade later the onesie became ubiquitous, with high-street sales skyrocketing after One Direction brought them into people's living rooms. File next to man-buns – Zoolander did them first.
Sweat Shops and Niche Drinks
At the start of the film, a shady fashion cartel are intent on keeping sweat shop labour going, despite the prime minister of Malaysia's plan to ban it. One fashionista complains: "50% of my inventory is manufactured in sweat shops in Malaysia!" Zoolander satirised fashion's cognitive dissonance about sweat shop labour deftly. 25 years on, it's still, tragically, very much an issue.
In the film, Derek and his flatmates share a love of the orange mocha frappuccino, while designer Mugatu (Will Ferrell) loses it when his latte is too foamy. Fashion's niche drinks orders have arguably only become more extreme – as any fashion intern with a long list of hyper-specific morning matcha and iced coffee orders will tell you.
Posh's World and Fashion Retirements
Zoolander has more guest stars than an episode of Friends, including David Bowie, Tommy Hilfiger, Paris Hilton, Gwen Stefani, Tom Ford, Winona Ryder, Mark Ronson, Donatella Versace, Lil Kim and Sandra Bernhard. Victoria Beckham delivers the line "he's a fashion icon!" about Derek. Given her move from non-smiling Spice Girl to non-smiling creative director in the last 25 years, she could have been talking about herself.
When Derek announces his early retirement from modelling at the triple funeral of his flatmates, the assembled mourners are shocked. But the surprise catwalk curtain call has become familiar: Jean Paul Gaultier stood down in 2020 after 50 years, Dries Van Noten said goodbye in 2024, while stylist Law Roach "retired" on Instagram in 2023 before sneaking back two years later. Even Derek himself came out of retirement for Zoolander 2.
Magazines and the Derelicte Trend
"Not many people read your Time magazine, or whatever it's called," Derek tells journalist Matilda. At the time of release this was a joke. Time magazine's paid circulation was 4m copies per week. Now, not only is Time's paid digital circulation at about 370,000 but many of the fashion magazines featured in the film have long ceased production: Look, Marie Claire and InStyle to name but a few.
Mugatu's Derelicte collection, crassly inspired by unhoused people, was a stinging comment on how far-removed fashion can be from reality. The collection, which included a battered cardboard box worn as a dress, a feather boa of inflated condoms and a cape made of rubbish, picked at a concept which the likes of Demna later focused in on at Vetements and Balenciaga, elevating wear-and-tear as the distressed look.
