The UK's fashion and arts world is in mourning following the death of Pamela Hogg, the groundbreaking designer and artist, at the age of 66. Known for her punk spirit, Warholian colour, and skin-tight designs worn by icons from Debbie Harry to Kylie Minogue, Hogg's life was a vivid tapestry of creativity, independence, and rebellion against conformity.
A Life Forged in Paisley and the London Clubs
Born in Paisley into a close family, the young Pam was immersed in a world of fabric and colour. Glasgow School of Art proved a revelation, but it was the move to London and the legendary Blitz club that truly catalysed her future. The club's ethos of fabulous and outrageous dress codes unlocked her imagination. "London club life seized my imagination," she once said. "I may not have chosen fashion … but fashion had chosen me."
Author Irvine Welsh, a close friend, first met Hogg on a drizzly Soho night in the 1980s. Despite her rising fame, with collections in Harrods and international boutiques, she spotted Welsh fretting outside the Wag Club and ushered him in with her. This act of kindness, Welsh recalls, was emblematic of her character.
From Fashion Stardom to Rock 'n' Roll Rebellion
Between 1985 and 1989, Hogg produced six acclaimed collections, graced the cover of i-D magazine, and opened her own Soho boutique. Her clientele became a who's who of music and style, including Siouxsie Sioux, Björk, and Kylie Minogue. By 1990, she was being introduced to a mainstream audience by Terry Wogan.
Yet, true to her punk roots, she stepped away at the height of her fame. She formed the band Doll, embracing her love for rock 'n' roll as a guitarist and singer. Welsh spent much of the 1990s touring and clubbing with her, noting her "wild charisma" and genuine humility. "No party on the planet was safe from Hoggy rocking up!" he wrote.
Hogg famously self-funded shows to retain creative control, often working herself to physical exhaustion in her Hackney workshop. Her art was celebrated in major exhibitions, such as 2006's Switch on the Power alongside Warhol and Yoko Ono. A major comeback was sparked when Kylie Minogue wore a Hogg catsuit in 2010.
A Legacy of Activism and Uncompromising Art
In her later years, Hogg's work became increasingly political. She paid tribute to Pussy Riot during the Sochi Olympics, designed Brit Award statuettes, and created a large-scale print, Paisley Poodle, for her hometown museum. In 2024, she fittingly received an Icon award for services to fashion and philanthropy.
Accepting it, she stated: "To accept this award is to highlight and aid in the unacceptable struggles of all children here and around the globe. This has to end." Deeply affected by the conflict in Palestine, she posted prolifically about it even as her own health declined.
Her final exhibition, Of Gods and Monsters, was described by Keyi magazine as "a profound reflection on humanity, resilience, and the necessity for change." Irvine Welsh visited her in St Joseph's hospice, telling his unconscious friend that her life was defined by creativity, independence, courage, and kindness. Pam Hogg, the Paisley princess who opened doors for so many, left absolutely nothing on the table.
