Pointelle's Resurgence: The Nostalgic Fabric Redefining Modern Fashion
In a world marked by rapid change and unpredictability, fashion is turning to the comforting embrace of nostalgia. Pointelle, a patterned knit fabric once synonymous with childhood underwear, is experiencing a remarkable revival, offering adults a blend of vintage charm and modern functionality. This trend is capturing the zeitgeist, with celebrities and brands alike championing its delicate, openwork design.
The Rise of Pointelle in Contemporary Style
Pointelle has emerged from the shadows of girls' vests and thermal-wear to become a staple in adult wardrobes. According to Merriam-Webster, pointelle is defined as "an openwork design (as in knitted fabric) typically in the shape of chevrons," often adorned with hearts, florals, diamonds, or zigzags. Its resurgence is evident across various platforms, from high-fashion runways to everyday streetwear.
Recent sightings include Rosalía performing in a pointelle bodysuit during her world tour in Paris and Sabrina Carpenter gracing the cover of Perfect magazine in a cyan eyeshadow and pointelle underwear set. The fabric is peeking out from under shirts and jumpers in offices and on public transport, signaling a shift towards more relaxed, yet stylish, attire.
Market Impact and Cultural Significance
The demand for pointelle is surging, with John Lewis reporting a 60% week-on-week increase in online searches. Brands like Herd are offering "featherlight yet warm" jumpers in pointelle, while John Lewis sells bandana-scarves and pyjamas made from the material. At Cou Cou Intimates, sales of pointelle items have grown by 150% year over year, highlighting its commercial appeal.
Aurora Benson, womenswear buying manager at John Lewis, notes that "pointelle is no longer just for lounging." She attributes its popularity to a move beyond cottagecore and grandpacore aesthetics, citing its "delicate lace-like texture" that evokes vintage nostalgia while providing modern technical benefits. Bridget Dalton, a semiotician at Truth Consulting, adds that pointelle garments capture a "tension between warm and cold," offering an "exposed but comforted feeling" that she describes as "almost like the antidote to Brat."
Nostalgia and Subversion in Pointelle Fashion
The appeal of pointelle lies deeply in its nostalgic roots. Rose Colcord, founder of Cou Cou Intimates, explains that "culturally, people are craving nostalgia and familiarity, especially with how fast the world is changing." She emphasizes that pointelle reminds wearers of childhood innocence, a time when "you weren't worried about other people's opinions or how you should dress."
However, pointelle also carries a subversive edge when worn by adults. Dalton points to its provocative nature, citing examples like Kristen Stewart's Rolling Stone cover in Y-fronts, which plays with gender and underwear norms. At Cou Cou Intimates, the pointelle thong is a bestseller, blending comfort with a hint of rebellion. This paradox is further illustrated by Lily Allen's choice of a black pointelle Dior dress at a London premiere, which combined high necklines and long sleeves with the fabric's revealing holes.
Comfort Versus Conformity in Modern Attire
Pointelle represents a departure from traditional sexy fabrics like spandex or sequins, which often restrict the body. Dalton describes it as having a "blanket-like quality" that offers softness and stretchiness, creating a sense of being "cosseted" while still showing the body. This makes it an ideal choice for those seeking comfort without compromising on style.
Yet, Dalton warns of potential pitfalls, questioning if the trend reflects broader cultural movements, such as the tradwife aesthetic, infiltrating personal fashion choices. Despite this, pointelle's ability to balance nostalgia with contemporary relevance ensures its place as a key trend in today's fashion landscape.
As pointelle continues to gain momentum, it serves as a testament to fashion's power to evoke emotion and adapt to societal shifts. Whether for its comfort, nostalgia, or subtle provocation, this fabric is redefining how adults dress in an ever-changing world.
