The fashion world is mourning the loss of Paul Costelloe, the celebrated Irish designer whose elegant linen creations became a staple in the wardrobe of Diana, Princess of Wales. Costelloe, who sustained his eponymous label for 47 years, has died at the age of 80.
An Irish Legacy Woven in Linen
Paul Costelloe's career was intrinsically linked to his homeland. While he honed his craft internationally in fashion capitals like Paris, Milan, and New York, his design philosophy remained rooted in Ireland's natural fibres, particularly linen. At a time when synthetic fabrics dominated, Costelloe championed linen long before its widespread revival, appreciating its texture and quality by touch as much as by sight. His label, launched in 1978 with backing from Northern Irish manufacturer Strelitz Ltd and its Moygashel linen brand, became a bridge between Dublin's artisan traditions and the island's ready-to-wear manufacturing prowess.
Royal Patronage and Global Recognition
Costelloe's big break into the British establishment came in 1983. After a member of the Princess of Wales's staff discovered his boutique in Windsor, he was summoned to Kensington Palace. Diana, Princess of Wales, became a devoted client, with Costelloe convinced her working wardrobe needed the cool, elegant simplicity of his linen dresses. She wore his designs on official engagements across the globe, cementing his international reputation. This royal endorsement coincided with his debut at London Fashion Week in 1984, where he remained a fixture for four decades, closing the inaugural Irish fashion week in Dublin with his 2025 collection just last October.
His skill extended beyond womenswear into sharp tailoring, leading to significant commissions for uniforms. He designed for British Airways in 1993 at the airline's peak, as well as for Aer Lingus and the Irish Olympic team in 2004.
A Life in Design: From Dublin to the World
Born in Dublin on 23 June 1945, Costelloe was one of seven children. His father, William, was a tailor with a gift for cloth, which influenced Paul's own textile sensibilities. A talented artist, he studied at the Grafton Academy of Fashion Design in Dublin before moving to Paris. His professional journey took him to Milan, where he designed for La Rinascente, and later to New York's garment district.
Returning to Ireland in 1978, he built a durable family business. He often lamented not achieving the investment levels of peers like Armani, but took pride in his accessibility, creating popular lines for Dunnes Stores. He is survived by his wife, Anne, and their seven children, many of whom work within the firm. Costelloe maintained homes and studios in both Dublin and London, cycling between his design studio in central London and his house in Putney.
Paul Costelloe's death on 21 November 2025 marks the end of an era for Irish fashion. He witnessed and contributed to Ireland's transformation into a prosperous European nation, all while dressing one of the world's most iconic women and creating timeless, intelligent clothing rooted in the fabric of his home country.
