At the Carpet Shop nightclub in Peckham, south London, on Saturday night, the crowd gathered not for the DJ but for England's victorious World Cup quarter-final match against Norway. For many young spectators, fashion was as important as the football, with a resurgence of noughties style and WAG culture taking center stage.
Vintage Football Shirts and Nostalgic Looks
Luke Grandon and Mattia Guarnera, both 27, described themselves as "massive" football fans. Guarnera wore a white polo shirt from a limited-edition World Cup collaboration between Lyle & Scott and British artist Reuben Dangoor, featuring "LOVE" on the back. He said, "The spectacle is the football, but I'm also interested in the visuals that come alongside it." Grandon sported a white three lions jersey spray-painted with a woman's face, designed by Guarnera.
Sophie Whilby, 27, does not usually follow football but tunes in "when it makes sense for me." She wore an England jersey from Palestinian streetwear brand FreePLTN. "It's all about the atmosphere for me and the built environment that comes with the culture," she said. "Every England game I try to wear something new."
WAG Culture Inspires New Generation
The aesthetics of "Wag culture" from the 2006 World Cup in Baden-Baden, Germany, have grabbed attention online thanks to social media and the 20-year trend cycle. Priya Patel, 31, wore an authentic vintage Michael Owen shirt from the early 2000s made into a crop top. "I love it. Victoria Beckham, Coleen Rooney, the little dogs in the big bags, the blow drys and the fake tan," she said. Patel noted that the new generation of WAGs, such as Tolami Benson (fiancee of Bukayo Saka), sparked her interest.
Martyna Kaczynska and Indiana Meager, both 19, were not alive in 2006 but echoed the sentiment. "I saw a photo of Declan Rice's girlfriend on Instagram, and she looked amazing," said Kaczynska. Meager added, "Sometimes if you're a big supporter, women get laughed at and it's nice to have a part that's cool, that is for the women."
Camp Aesthetics and Reclaiming the Flag
The courtyard felt like a portal to 2006, with people using pocket-sized digital cameras, wearing low-rise denim and vintage T-shirts, and dancing to a remix of Kylie Minogue's Can't Get You Out of My Head. Vanessa Hsiuh, 31, wore a bodysuit printed with a paparazzi image of Victoria Beckham from 2006, designed by Afta Youth. "It's just so camp. Pop culture just doesn't 'pop culture' in the way it used to," she said. Hsiuh, whose favorite player is Jude Bellingham, said, "I'm really interested in the Wags more than the actual players. But then I actually watched the game and now I'm into it."
Despite the nostalgic style, there was recognition of the rightwing connotations of the St George's cross. Megan T, 33, wearing a vintage pale blue Umbro three lions jersey, said, "It's been quite a scary time for people of colour, especially with the rise of Reform. But it's nice to see black and brown people being proud to wear these tops." Grandon added, "I think we need to reclaim it and be proud of it."
