As Paris Fashion Week's menswear segment approached its concluding weekend, a significant chapter in luxury fashion history drew to a close. Hermès orchestrated a poignant transition on Saturday when Véronique Nichanian unveiled her final men's collection for the esteemed house, culminating an extraordinary thirty-seven-year tenure at the helm of its menswear division.
A Standing Ovation for a Fashion Icon
Following the presentation of the Fall-Winter 2026 collection, Nichanian emerged to receive a heartfelt standing ovation from the assembled audience. The show was held at the historic Palais Brongniart, the former Paris stock exchange, providing a grand setting for this milestone event. The front row featured a notable blend of Hermès leadership, including executive chairman Axel Dumas, alongside an unusually diverse array of celebrities from music, film, and design.
Singer Usher was spotted conversing with Dumas prior to the show, while rapper Travis Scott, actors James McAvoy and Chace Crawford, and designer Paul Smith were among the distinguished guests in attendance. This gathering underscored the widespread respect and admiration for Nichanian's influential career.
The Signature Hermès Aesthetic on Display
On the runway, Nichanian remained true to the material-focused, understated elegance that has become synonymous with Hermès men's clothing under her direction. Models showcased silk turtlenecks paired with leather trousers in a sophisticated, restrained palette dominated by navy, black, and taupe. Outerwear pieces, such as overcoats, incorporated leather patchwork details and plush shearling linings, emphasising warmth, texture, and refined craftsmanship without ostentation.
Nodding to the Archive
The collection thoughtfully integrated archival pieces from Nichanian's previous seasons, creating a dialogue between past and present. Highlights included a navy leather suit featuring distinctive topstitched pinstripes, originally presented in 2003, and a mocha calfskin jumpsuit from the 1991 collection. Pops of colour emerged in controlled bursts, with vibrant orange and yellow jackets providing striking contrasts against the prevailing darker tones.
One of the most eye-catching ensembles was a glossy khaki crocodile-skin suit, a bold statement piece that stood out amidst the collection's otherwise quiet fusion of leather, silk, and tailored outerwear.
A New Chapter Begins
Hermès announced in October that London-based designer Grace Wales Bonner will succeed Nichanian as the creative director of menswear. Wales Bonner, the founder of her eponymous label, is scheduled to present her debut Hermès menswear collection in January next year. This appointment is historic, as she is set to become the first Black woman to lead a major fashion house.
While Nichanian's role in menswear design concludes, her association with Hermès continues. The company has confirmed she will remain with the brand, overseeing men's accessories and silk divisions. This ensures her expertise and vision will still influence the house as its menswear enters an exciting new era under fresh creative leadership.
