Jackson Boxer's new restaurant Vesper, located at 8-10 Exmouth Market, EC1, has opened to critical acclaim. The restaurant, named after the evening star Venus, offers a menu of seasonal plates with a modern British twist. A meal for two costs approximately £240.
Location and Atmosphere
Exmouth Market is already home to iconic restaurants like Moro, The Eagle, Caravan, and Morchella. Vesper adds to this rich culinary landscape with designer Jermaine Gallacher's hard lines and soft furnishings, creating a space that positively glows. During a heatwave visit, the pink hazy sky matched the mood after a day fueled only by cottage cheese and a Cornetto.
Snacks and Starters
Dining begins with snacks. The sorpresa dei castelli salami dotted with vignola cherries and marcona almonds is a hit, especially for a companion who loves cherries in savoury contexts. The salt and vinegar crisps are darkly fried in-house, served with onion and hay-smoked sour cream, trout roe, and cubes of pepper jelly. According to the review, these crisps are "the snack I wanted (but perhaps didn’t know I needed)."
Server Jake recommends the Atlantic prawn starter with fenugreek and black lime butter, calling it unmissable. Another starter is an intriguing tangle of green beans dressed with gooseberry tahini and hazelnuts on top of soft robiola cheese.
Wine List
Boxer, who no longer drinks, has wine director Arthur Henson curating an agenda-setting list. It ranges from house wines in keg for £6.50 to rare special pours. The Hundred Hills Oxfordshire sparkling rosé, 2019 vintage, is available by the glass, a rare find.
Main Courses and Sides
The main course is a neat ronde de Nice courgette, baked and piled on top of hazelnut romesco, vadouvan cream, piattone beans, and green herbs. Portions are generous, a hallmark of Boxer's restaurants. Sides include a bountiful plate of leaves dressed with champagne vinegar and strewn with chives and Spenwood cheese. However, the duck fat fries are a point of contention for non-meat eaters, as they preclude solo visits for a martini and chips.
Dessert and Final Impressions
Dessert is a toasted canelé with rum caramel and goat's milk, described as chewy, charred, and lovely. The restaurant fills up with guests hoping to snag one of just 10 house burgers available each day. One table orders a £29 glass of sought-after Ganevat Jura chardonnay, highlighting the high-low clientele Vesper attracts.
User reviews echo the praise. Gourmet Guy says, "Trust me, this new restaurant from Jackson Boxer is worth a visit." Madeleine’s Place comments, "Immaculate vespers, an excellent wine list and possibly the best fries I’ve ever eaten. Congratulations Jackson Boxer on a beautiful new opening!" Ekumayu calls it "Town’s hottest!"
