Jesse Burgess, the 34-year-old host of Topjaw, has become a powerful force in London's restaurant scene. His 'Best of' series, launched in 2023 with videographer Will Warr, now boasts over a million followers. The format is simple: in 90 seconds, influential chefs, critics and celebrities recommend their favourite places to eat, drink or get drunk. Guests have included Gordon Ramsay, Andrew Garfield and Florence Pugh.
Restaurants featured on Topjaw often see a surge in bookings. Oisín Rogers, owner of the Devonshire pub, says the platform is 'hugely important' and that customers often mention Topjaw as the reason for their visit. 'It's about weaponising opinion,' Rogers explains. 'Topjaw has no skin in the game, so when you trust the person recommending it, that information is invaluable.'
However, not everyone is a fan. Some industry insiders describe Topjaw as 'lowest common denominator content' that is 'one dimensional but highly addictive'. Critics argue it creates hype where there may be none, a phenomenon dubbed 'Schrödinger's catfish' by writer Gabrielle Bluestone. Burgess insists he and Topjaw never accept payment from restaurants to maintain authenticity.
Burgess sees himself not as a critic but as a gatekeeper. 'People may respect my opinion, but I'm not there to criticise,' he says. The show has expanded beyond London to Cornwall, Paris and New York, and Burgess now fronts a TV series, Knife Edge: Chasing Michelin Stars, on Apple TV. Despite the debate, the Topjaw effect is undeniable: restaurants like Akub, Kudu and Fonda have all benefited from its viral reach.
