Josh Barrie reviews Ma/na, a new Japanese-inspired restaurant in Mayfair, describing it as a brooding venue full of rich mahogany and beautiful people. He notes the signature flaming avocados but declines to order one, preferring a vodka martini with an olive.
First Impressions and Hamachi Crudo
Barrie starts with hamachi crudo: six slivers of delicate fish with ponzu, yuzu kosho, and olive oil, plus a balsamic reduction. He finds it mostly enjoyable, though the balsamic seems unnecessary.
The Atmosphere
Ma/na exudes Mayfair luxury, with loud music and champagne flowing freely. Barrie observes a chef on a date, friends from Dubai, low-level footballers, and a possible airline owner. Despite the opulence, the food surprises him with its quality.
Crab Maki and Tuna
Crab maki features king crab, roe, and creamy avocado, well-made if not Jiro-level. Tuna, seared lightly, is a Mayfair staple, with fatty belly soft and wobbly.
Kobe Beef and Truffle Rice
The Kobe beef, from Japanese Black cattle, is massaged, fed beer, and played Bach, costing £310. Barrie calls it faintly enchanting. The truffle rice, prepared with a white glove and shaved truffle, is the standout: full-bodied with butter, garlic, onion, chives, black sesame seeds, and zenmai fern.
Final Thoughts
Barrie notes the chef, Leonard Tanyag, has a mad budget for sourcing, using tobiko, truffle, wasabina leaves, dehydrated miso, and bubu arare. He advises skipping the flaming avocados and sticking to the rice. Reader quotes praise the gluten-free menu and tasting menu highlights like otoro tartare and wagyu kushiyaki.
