The cost of a traditional fish and chip supper has nearly doubled since 2019, from £6.48 to £11.17, according to the Office for National Statistics. Rising prices, driven by Brexit, dwindling fish stocks, pandemic inflation, and conflicts in Ukraine and the Middle East, have forced many chip shops to experiment with alternatives to cod and haddock.
In Cornwall, Harbour Lights owner Pete Fraser ran a 'cod-free week' in April, replacing cod with coley, pollack, hake and hoki. Unlike 15 years ago, customers responded positively, with some asking for a repeat. Fraser said: 'For 20 years I've been on a personal mission to get the British to be braver. If you try different fish, you take pressure off the stocks of the more popular ones.'
Other shops are following suit. At the Cod's Scallops in Nottingham, customers can order monkfish, hake, plaice and sea bass. The Mayfair Chippy in London removed cod due to sustainability concerns. In Cromer, Will's Plaice introduced New Zealand hoki, priced at £12 compared to £14.10 for cod. Owner Will Watson said: 'Cod and haddock still make up 75-80% of sales, but those who try hoki often reorder.'
Despite the shift, cod and haddock remain dominant, with a 17-3 split in favour of cod in most of England. However, Barry Young of Brixham Trawler Agents noted that 'there is scope for a wider range of species to play a bigger role in the future.' The National Federation of Fish Friers reports that almost half of owners are 'extremely worried' about the future, with hundreds of shops up for sale.
