Zakopane, a southern Polish town near the Slovak border, offers a mountain retreat as spectacular as the Alps but at a fraction of the cost. Often overshadowed by Warsaw and Krakow, this destination merits greater recognition as an underappreciated European treasure.
Timber lodges radiate Highland authenticity, and substantial cuisine arrives without Alpine price tags. Although known as the "winter capital of Poland," autumn proves the ideal window for experiencing Zakopane, after summer visitors have dispersed and conditions become more reliable than the dampest months of June, July and August.
Top walking routes in Zakopane
Hiking options cater to every fitness level and feature Morskie Oko, Poland's most renowned trail. The manageable four to five-hour return journey rewards walkers with vistas of the glistening lake encircled by vertical granite cliffs. Morskie Oko stands as the largest lake within Tatra National Park.
Organise your journey based on bus timetables from Zakopane bus station, situated on the railway station forecourt. Cash is required, though navigation proves straightforward using Google Maps and speaking with locals at the terminus.
For a relaxed, accessible ramble, the stunning Dolina Kocieliska and Dolina Bialego valleys deliver gorgeous countryside trails. The demanding Giewont suits experienced mountaineers, while the accessible Nosal summit offers sweeping vistas near the town centre.
Local cuisine and costs
Beside the lake, a traditional timber cabin dishes up substantial mountain cuisine. During a visit by the Express's Phoebe Cornish, drenched from a summer rainstorm yet warm in mid-20s heat, she sheltered inside for refreshment. With merely a few zloty remaining and needing bus fare back to central Zakopane, Phoebe opted for pickled herring atop bread alongside a portion of apple cake.
Zakopane's culinary landscape embraces its highlander (Goral) heritage. Oscypek, the smoked sheep's cheese holding protected EU designation, is barbecued on every street corner, typically accompanied by cranberry preserve. Pierogi — dumplings filled with potato, meat, or cabbage — feature on every menu alongside locally brewed beers, with a pint in Zakopane costing approximately £2.20. By comparison, you can expect to pay upwards of £6 or £7 in France, Austria, and Switzerland.
What to do in Zakopane
Following a day on the trails, Zakopane provides another alpine essential at a considerably lower price: thermal baths, such as Chocholowskie Termy. This represents Poland's largest thermal pool facility at present, featuring 30 indoor and outdoor pools plus barrels containing thermal water with medicinal and therapeutic benefits. Chocholow is a small yet fascinating village situated 17km from Zakopane.
For those without transport, an alternative option is the town's most prestigious accommodation, Nosalowy Park Hotel & Spa. Day visitors can purchase a Nabe Spa Day Pass for entry to the wellness facility, which remains open until 10pm daily. The hotel boasts one of the area's most significant addresses: Villa Marilor. Originally constructed in 1912, it now serves as the hotel's sophisticated restaurant.
Throughout the town, visitors will observe Zakopane's distinctive architectural character, created by Stanislaw Witkiewicz during the 1890s. This design merges traditional Podhale region log-construction techniques with Art Nouveau ornamental features. At every turn, dramatic A-frames and balconies stand silhouetted against the mountains, lending the town centre a fairytale charm. Villa Koliba represents the first Witkiewicz structure, while Villa Atma accommodates the Szymanowski museum. A stroll down Koscieliska Street, Zakopane's most ancient thoroughfare, reveals numerous historic timber dwellings.
Reaching Zakopane
Travellers can arrive via Krakow John Paul II International Airport (KRK) (the principal choice) or Poprad-Tatry Airport (TAT) in Slovakia, before continuing by bus, train, or car to Zakopane. Regular direct coaches depart at least hourly from Kraków's central bus terminal. The fare costs approximately £7 and the journey lasts just shy of two hours.
Upon arrival, the town proves level, compact, and easily navigable on foot. Local buses and minibuses connect walking trails and thermal spa facilities. According to Skyscanner, November emerges as the most economical month for UK-Poland flights, with fares from £29. During October, flights begin at £42.
