On Reeth High Moor in late January, sleet falls relentlessly, driven by a frigid east wind that chills to the bone. The landscape vanishes into a haze of mizzle and mirk, creating an eerie, almost mystical atmosphere. Behind the wheel of a little Renault Clio hire car, I feel every bit the tourist idiot as its wheels begin to slide on the increasingly icy road, a stark reminder of nature's untamed power.
Navigating the Icy Challenges
Will I make it through this treacherous terrain? The answer, thankfully, is yes. With extreme caution, I manage to descend into Arkengarthdale, where the slush and frozen patches lessen, offering a brief respite. This harrowing experience teaches a valuable lesson: never underestimate the moors, especially in winter. While summer visitors might associate the Yorkshire Dales with cream teas, sticky ginger cake, cricket on village greens, and the beloved tales of James Herriot, the winter season reveals a different, more dramatic side.
A Romantic Yet Dangerous Landscape
In winter, the rivers roar over jagged rocks, trees stand gaunt and bare against the sky, and biting winds take hold, transforming the scenery into something 'romantic' in a wild, lonely, and dangerous sense. This evokes the turbulent paintings of J.M.W. Turner and the passionate poems of Lord Byron. It also brings to mind the prose of Emily Brontë, that strange, fierce young woman who gifted the world Wuthering Heights, her bitter and unforgettable tale of love, obsession, class hatred, and vengeance, all set against the backdrop of the Yorkshire moors.
New Film Inspires Tourism Boom
With a new film version of Wuthering Heights, starring Margot Robbie as Catherine Earnshaw and Jacob Elordi as Heathcliff, released last week, it is an apposite moment to visit. Many scenes from the movie were shot in locations such as Swaledale and the remoter Arkengarthdale. Some reviewers have noted that director Emerald Fennell included perhaps a few too many rain-swept sequences, which might deter some visitors. However, the Yorkshire moors are experiencing a surge in popularity following the film's release, drawing fans eager to experience the settings firsthand.
Exploring Key Locations
Do not be put off by the weather warnings. Many fine settings, such as Surrender Bridge and Old Gang Mines on Reeth High Moor, along with the lovely village of Low Row, offer immense pleasure to visitors. At the Punch Bowl Inn in Low Row, the friendly landlady confirmed that both Robbie and Elordi spent many hours during downtime from filming at the pub, always at ease and never displaying diva-like behavior. She shared a humorous anecdote: her young daughter, who loves dressing up as Harley Quinn—Margot Robbie's character from Suicide Squad—was overjoyed to meet the real actress, creating an unforgettable moment.
Immersive Walks and Local History
I stayed in the village of Reeth, with a population of 724, at the wonderful Kings Arms, a Grade II-listed inn dating from 1734. From here, you can walk westwards alongside the river Swale, a name meaning 'rushing, fierce, torrential,' perfectly capturing its winter character. The trail leads as far as the bridge at Low Whita, back through Healaugh, and over the flank of Reeth Low Moor. This is farming territory, where tough Swaledale sheep with curly horns dot the hillsides, resembling white 'spectacles,' and the moors bear scars from historic lead mines.
Tales from the Past
Many stories swirl around Surrender Bridge. Does its name originate from young Yorkshire lasses allowing admirers to steal a first kiss? Perhaps, but a bloodier origin suggests it might be where Scottish raiders surrendered. Throughout the 14th century, Scottish armies attacked the dales, with the Archbishop of York reporting in 1322 that Scots had reduced the area around Richmond 'to ashes and smouldering embers.' Place names like Bloody Vale hint at this dark past, while more light-hearted locations include Crackpot, Booze, and Wham Bottom.
Tranquil Evenings and Magical Moments
These days, the dales possess a tranquil, dreamlike quality. Descending from the moors at dusk, seeing huddled inns and cottages in the valley below, their windows illuminated with orange firelight, evokes the same relief old miners and travellers once felt—safe and warm after the desolate uplands. On my final evening, stepping outside after dinner, I found too much cloud cover for stars, but the sounds of owls and the redolent tang of coal smoke from cottage fires filled the air, creating a magical, quintessentially Yorkshire atmosphere.
Travel Essentials
For those planning a visit, The Kings Arms in Reeth offers excellent food and doubles from £120. Additionally, the Dales Bike Centre and Cakery in Fremington provides superb cakes, glamping pods, and electric rental mountain bikes, making it a perfect stop for adventurers and food lovers alike.
