Troyes: The Perfect Champagne-Soaked Train Travel Alternative to Paris
For travellers seeking a relaxed and inviting city break without the need for air travel, the pretty town of Troyes in the Champagne region of France presents an ideal alternative to a Paris mini-break. Writer Catherine Usher recently journeyed by train to this atmospheric destination, uncovering a wealth of art, history, and, of course, exceptional bubbly.
A Compact and Intimate Destination
Troyes is located just a 90-minute train ride from Paris, offering a more compact and intimate experience compared to the bustling capital. The town is characterised by its charming half-timbered buildings, largely constructed in the 16th century, and countless cobbled streets that invite leisurely exploration. While it serves as a popular stop for holidaymakers driving south to other parts of France or onwards to Germany and Switzerland, a car is not necessary for visitors.
The journey to Troyes can be made environmentally friendly by taking the Eurostar to Paris, followed by a short train ride. A convenient 10-minute walk connects Gare du Nord and Gare de l’Est in Paris, making the transition seamless. Once in Troyes, much of the town is easily navigable on foot, allowing for a stress-free exploration of its many attractions.
Cultural and Historical Highlights
Troyes boasts a rich cultural scene, with two museums standing out as must-visit destinations. The Musée d’Art Moderne, situated next to the cathedral, houses an impressive collection of works by renowned artists such as Henri Matisse and André Derain. Its upper floor features sloping ceilings that create a cosy atmosphere, allowing visitors to feel a unique proximity to the artwork.
The Cite du Vitrail, a stained glass museum located in an 18th-century building, offers a tranquil and elegant experience. This venue explores the history of stained glass from the Middle Ages to the present day, showcasing striking and memorable exhibits that captivate visitors.
Champagne Discovery and Guided Tours
Being in the heart of the Champagne region, sampling its most famous export is an essential part of any visit. The Chassenay d’Arce champagne house in Ville-sur-Arce, about an hour’s drive from Troyes, provides an insightful experience. Founded in 1956 by five pioneers, it now comprises 130 families focused on cooperation and knowledge-sharing. A tour of its vast cellars reveals the intricate production process, while the tasting workshop at the end delights both connoisseurs and novices alike.
For those keen to delve deeper into Troyes’ history, guided tours hosted by Troyes La Champagne Tourisme are highly recommended. These tours, accommodating groups of up to 30 people, can be tailored to individual interests. Alternatively, visitors can explore independently with a City Pass, which includes an audioguide and admission to the museums.
Dining and Accommodation Options
When it comes to dining, Troyes offers a variety of delightful options. Octave is a sophisticated yet understated restaurant in the town centre, featuring a beautiful courtyard for al fresco dining. Its tapas-style menu, complemented by knowledgeable staff recommendations, ensures a memorable meal. For a quick and fuss-free lunch, Tonton Farine serves homemade fare in a welcoming bakery-canteen setting, popular with locals on their lunch breaks.
Accommodation in Troyes is equally appealing, with two elegant boutique hotels, La Maison de Rhodes and Le Champ des Oiseaux, located in adjoining medieval buildings. These family-run properties offer a combined 23 rooms, each with unique decor, and share amenities such as a tranquil walled garden, an outdoor heated pool, and a small spa. The on-site restaurant provides an elegant yet homely ambiance, perfect for unwinding after a day of exploration.
Practical Information and Costs
Rooms at La Maison de Rhodes start from £245 per night on a bed and breakfast basis, while Le Champ des Oiseaux offers rates from £174 per night. Eurostar journeys between London and Paris begin at £39 each way, with fares that are all-inclusive and no hidden extras. Notably, travelling by Eurostar from Paris to London results in 96% fewer CO2 emissions compared to flying, making it a sustainable choice for environmentally conscious travellers.
Overall, Troyes stands out as a straightforward and enchanting destination, combining historical charm, cultural richness, and the indulgence of champagne in a setting that is both accessible and sustainable. Whether exploring its museums, savouring local cuisine, or relaxing in boutique accommodations, this town offers a perfect escape for those seeking a refined yet relaxed French mini-break.
