Trillium Birmingham Review: Glyn Purnell's Bold and Joyful Restaurant Experience
Trillium, the newest restaurant in Birmingham by acclaimed chef Glyn Purnell, is a vibrant departure from the typical hushed, formal dining establishments. Located at 1 Snow Hill Queensway in Birmingham B4, this glass-fronted, multicoloured venue resembles a playful mock birdcage, setting the stage for an energetic and welcoming atmosphere. Unlike Purnell's other refined ventures like Purnell's and Plates, which are known for their Michelin-starred elegance, Trillium embraces a semi-rowdy yet upmarket vibe where guests can genuinely enjoy themselves without pretence.
A Welcoming and Lively Ambiance
From the moment you step inside, Trillium bombards the senses with its open kitchen, busy decor, and jolly, prompt, informal service. The dining room is filled with loud talk and roaring music, creating a dynamic environment far removed from the plinky-plonk of Ludovico Einaudi often heard in more sedate spots. Wobbly tables and flaming pans add to the chaotic charm, while the menu surprises with bold phrases like "beef carpaccio with Oxo cube" and "XXL gougère." This is not a place for stiff, teensy courses; instead, it's where indulgence and fun take centre stage.
Standout Dishes and Culinary Highlights
The food at Trillium is relentlessly spot-on, indulgent, imaginative, and bizarrely generous in portion size. Key dishes that define the experience include:
- XXL Gougère: A beast of a choux pastry, voluptuously filled with Montgomery cheddar and topped with an inch-thick gruyère garnish and paprika. It puts other tiny, stale versions to shame, feeling like a cruel prank in comparison.
- Coddled Duck Egg: Listed as a small plate but anything but, this dish features two buttery, runny-yolked eggs on sourdough slathered with smoked almond paste and truffle. It's a rich rethink of eggs benedict with a marzipan-y quality.
- Beef Carpaccio: Served with pickled shimeji mushrooms, bresaola, and an Oxo cube made from shredded beef cheek, this small plate surprises with its depth of flavour.
- Cornish Skate: A large plate option, perfectly cooked and served with butter beans and a rich, buttery espelette sauce that leaves a lasting impression.
- Vadouvan-Spiced Heritage Carrots: A vegetarian brilliance with lentils, coconut, and yoghurt, showcasing the kitchen's creativity.
The meal often starts with pudgy, sea salt-topped milk loaf buns dipped in a mysterious, oily mixture of warm chicken fat laced with malt vinegar—a flavour revelation that sets the tone for the indulgent journey ahead.
Service and Beverage Options
Trillium's service is informal yet attentive, with sommeliers ready to geek out over selections like Villa Noria Amfòra orange wine by the glass, explaining grape varieties and vineyard details. However, they equally welcome casual orders, such as an Aperol spritz paired with bruschetta topped with seaweed jam and anchovy. This flexibility ensures that all guests, whether wine connoisseurs or casual diners, feel at ease.
Pricing and Practical Details
While Trillium offers upmarket dining, it maintains accessibility with an à la carte menu starting from about £75 per head, plus drinks and service. For those looking to splurge, additions like Sturia oscietra caviar for an extra £25 on the battered potato scallop with soured cream are available, but the dishes are designed to feel luxuriously hedonistic regardless. Desserts include options like warm Manjari chocolate mousse or a caramel custard tart with ice-cream du jour, though lighter choices might be preferred after such a hearty meal.
The restaurant operates from Wednesday to Friday, with lunch from noon to 2:30pm and dinner from 6pm to 9pm, and on Saturdays from noon to 9pm. Contact is via email at restaurant@trilliumrestaurant.co.uk, as there is no phone service, adding to its modern, informal approach.
Overall Impression
Trillium represents a genuine attempt by a Michelin-starred restaurateur to translate fine dining's best bits into a more relaxed, joyful setting. While it might not be to everyone's taste due to its bold and silly nature, it succeeds in creating a space where people can eat well, rest an elbow on the table, order house wine, and have fun. Many chefs have tried to blend Michelin-quality food with casual ceremony, but Trillium comes remarkably close to achieving this balance, making it a standout destination in Birmingham's culinary scene.
