Jeremy King's Simpson's in the Strand: A Vintage Gem Brought Beautifully into the 21st Century
The newly refurbished and reopened Simpson's in the Strand stands as an unashamed throwback to a bygone era, yet it simultaneously serves as a masterclass for restaurateurs on how to rekindle past glories with contemporary flair. In a hospitality sector often struggling, Jeremy King's latest venture defies trends with wit, charm, and unwavering style, refusing to compromise on quality or authenticity.
A Beacon of Tradition Amid Modern Challenges
At a time when many restaurants resort to eye-popping price hikes without enhancing their offerings, King's approach is a breath of fresh air. Simpson's, located on the historic Strand between east and west London, had long stood abandoned and forlorn, a ghost of its former self next to the Savoy. King's intervention has transformed it into a vibrant classic, instantly restoring its status as a beloved institution.
The atmosphere is one of courtesy and ease, a stark contrast to the manufactured experiences and clipboard-wielding staff prevalent elsewhere. As cars pull up to the entrance, a frock-coated doorman—a familiar face from King's previous ventures—offers a warm greeting, ushering guests into a spacious, traditional dining room filled with polished wood and devoid of gaudiness.
Step into the Grand Divan
Through double doors lies John Simpson's 19th-century Grand Divan, where uniformed staff glide gracefully around the room. King himself is often present, stopping at each table for a brief, welcoming exchange that ends with a stooped nod of mutual respect. At the far end, a Victorian painting with the caption "was it not a dainty dish to set before a king" adds a whimsical touch, while a trolley wheels around offering gorgeous roast rib of Devonshire beef—even for lunch on a Wednesday.
While some say the food in a King restaurant is secondary to the sense of belonging, he is no fool. The menu is carefully curated to deliver exactly what patrons desire, with little concession to fleeting trends. Expect classic British dishes like a "Hovis" loaf (definitely not sourdough), mulligatawny soup, deep-fried scampi, rabbit and tarragon terrine, duck faggot, boiled ham with parsley sauce, grilled Barnsley chop, gentleman's relish on soldiers, rhubarb and apple crumble, and spotted dick. Salads are also available, ensuring something for everyone, including Wegovy-users.
Comforting Fare at Fair Prices
The food is both comforting and gladdening, notably without the price gouging seen elsewhere. A selection from the cold table—including rillettes of duck, cold roast topside of beef, and Wimbledon Smokehouse smoked salmon—costs just £17.50. This is remarkable for prime London real estate with high business rates and operational costs. The wine list features house carafes of hock, chablis, red burgundy, and claret, maintaining accessibility.
Though there are minor opening issues, such as slow main course service, these are expected to be resolved promptly. The building also houses Romano's, an all-day cafe upstairs, and Nellie's Tavern, a dark cocktail bar downstairs open late with a sangfroid flourish until "closing." Additional bars and a private dining room complete the expansive, smartly renovated space, which required a multi-million-pound refit.
A Revival of London Nightlife
King has further distinguished himself by championing a vibrant London nightlife, with Nellie's Tavern operating into the late hours. His confidence and bravura amid industry challenges deserve recognition, as Simpson's becomes a destination to be shared and savoured. A light has been reignited where darkness once prevailed, proving that the king is not dead—long live the king.
