Step aboard the Centaur, a Thames sailing barge built in 1895, for a unique weekend exploring the River Blackwater and Essex coast. This historic craft, operated by the volunteer-run Thames Sailing Barge Trust, offers flexible itineraries tailored to passengers' interests, from sailing up the river to swimming off Shingle Point and wandering around West Mersea on Mersea Island.
A Living Piece of Maritime History
The Centaur is one of only about 30 Thames barges still sailing today, either as private homes or leisure cruisers. These flat-bottomed trading boats, famous for their striking red sails, were once the lifeblood of the Thames estuary, carrying cargo in and out of London until the 1960s. Their shallow draft allowed them to navigate in as little as a metre of water, and their efficient rig meant a skipper and mate could shift around 150 tonnes of cargo.
On board, skipper Chris Martin, who teaches boatbuilding at Circles Alternative Education, oversees a crew of trainees and passengers. While helping to handle the barge is optional, many passengers choose to get involved, learning the ropes and experiencing the timeless rhythm of sailing.
An Unhurried Escape
As the barge makes its stately seven-knot progress, the slow pace works its magic on screen-frazzled minds. "This life is the antithesis of the digital age's obsession with instant gratification," says Martin. "Sailing barges may not be able to teach us much about cargo any more, but they can teach us the value of slowing down, doing things with our hands and spending time in nature."
The journey includes a swim from a sandbank near Tollesbury, a meander through West Mersea at golden hour, and a lasagne dinner on deck under a blazing sunset. Passengers can also enjoy a Pimm's at Tollesbury Marina and take in local landmarks like the Ross Revenge, home to Radio Caroline.
Preserving a Heritage
The Thames Sailing Barge Trust, run entirely by volunteers, relies on charters and public cruises to keep these historic vessels afloat. Sailing barges cost between £30,000 and £100,000 a year to maintain, and sourcing traditional timber like pitch pine is becoming increasingly difficult. The trust has recently been awarded £28,090 from the National Lottery Heritage Fund to develop a bid for the £4m needed to restore Centaur.
Despite the challenges, the trust offers free training for future skippers, though it typically takes 2,000 hours or 10 years to qualify. As 86-year-old Barry Pearce, a former barge skipper, reflects: "Well, they're just lovely, ain't they?"
Practical Information
Weekend trips aboard Centaur depart on 14 August, costing £220 for two nights' full board. Three-night trips depart on 3 September (£350 on Pudge, £320 on Centaur) and 18 September (£290 on Centaur). A variety of one-day sailings are also available from £55 to £125 per person.
