Ross-on-Wye: The Historic Market Town That Launched British Tourism
Nestled in a picturesque corner where Herefordshire meets Gloucestershire on the Welsh border, Ross-on-Wye stands as an unassuming market town with a remarkable claim to fame. It is widely recognised as the birthplace of British tourism, serving as the premier holiday destination during the late 18th and early 19th centuries.
The Origins of a Tourism Revolution
In 1782, Reverend William Gilpin published Observations on the River Wye, Britain's first-ever travel guide. This pioneering work centred on a boat tour from Ross-on-Wye to Chepstow, capturing the imagination of the era with its celebration of the "picturesque." During the Napoleonic Wars, when continental Grand Tours became impossible, mimicking Gilpin's journey along the River Wye became the fashionable pursuit for British travellers.
Today, with a population of around 11,000, Ross-on-Wye retains its old-world charm. The town is adorned with stunning black-and-white timber-framed buildings and independent shops, offering visitors a glimpse into its historic past.
A Culinary and Scenic Exploration
My visit began with a stay at the Hope & Anchor, a charming inn situated on the edge of the River Wye. This very location was once the departure point for the historic boat tours described by Gilpin. The inn provided a comfortable base, featuring an ensuite room with elegant chandelier lighting and romantic river views.
Dining at the Hope & Anchor proved to be an exceptional experience. Highlights included:
- Whipped Camembert Brûlée: Served with fig chutney, toasted sourdough, hazelnut, and apple, offering a delightful blend of creamy and tart flavours.
- Garlic-and-Thyme-Roasted Supreme of Chicken: A generous roast dinner with perfectly crispy roast potatoes, seasonal vegetables, and a colossal Yorkshire pudding.
- Vina Cerrada Rioja: A rich red wine with notes of plum and black fruits, providing a sophisticated accompaniment.
The attentive staff and warm atmosphere made the meal particularly memorable, even accommodating the whims of a toddler more interested in ketchup than fine dining.
Local Cafés and Historic Sites
For lunch, I visited Maggie's Place on High Street, a cosy café with open beams and brickwork. The owner emphasised a commitment to locally sourced ingredients, exemplified by a delicious ham sandwich featuring locally cured ham and bread. The Café Au Lait served was exceptionally smooth and rich, requiring no added sugar.
A stroll up the hill led to The Royal Hotel, a historic inn that once hosted tourists embarking on the Wye River boat tours. Built on the foundations of a 13th-century Bishop's Palace, it offers commanding views of the River Wye. Nearby, The Prospect, a pleasure garden laid out around 1700 by John Kyrle, provides panoramic vistas of the famous horseshoe bend in the Wye and the distant Black Mountains.
Following in Gilpin's Footsteps
Using the Museum Without Walls App, an augmented reality tool that overlays historical images onto modern locations, I explored the river's edge. The app vividly illustrated how boats once set sail from outside the Hope & Anchor, bringing Gilpin's journey to life. Despite recent rainfall swelling the River Wye and saturating the paths, the walk offered a tangible connection to the town's tourism heritage.
Breakfast at The Pavilion, adjacent to the Hope & Anchor, featured perfectly prepared Eggs Royale with a gooey yolk and toasted muffin, setting the stage for another day of exploration.
Essential Visitor Information
Ross-on-Wye continues to welcome visitors with a range of amenities:
- Hope & Anchor: Offers lunch, dinner, and overnight stays from £90 per night for two on a bed-and-breakfast basis.
- The Pavilion: Serves breakfast and cocktail masterclasses in a bright, chic setting.
- Maggie's Place: Open Monday to Saturday 10:30am–4:30pm and Sunday 12:30pm–4:30pm, focusing on locally sourced fare.
- The Royal Hotel: Operates year-round with dog-friendly policies, serving breakfast and evening meals.
- Museum Without Walls App: Available for download to experience Gilpin's Wye Boat Tour through augmented reality.
Ross-on-Wye's blend of historic significance, scenic beauty, and culinary excellence cements its status as a hidden gem in British tourism. As trends shift towards romanticism and soul-seeking travels, this market town offers a timeless escape into the origins of the UK's holiday culture.
